Downtown Saigon 30th January 2012

Pham Ngu Road...


The Saigon downtown bus has finished running for the night so it' l have to be a taxi ride. I half expected it and research before arriving Came up with a couple of taxi companies reported to be reputable - Vinasun and Mai linh. The ride to district 1 should cost around $5 and could take anything up to an hour, according to Wiki travel. The driver doesn't speak any English, but he understands and smiles at the word money and at this point I make sure the meter is switched on! He cant understand where i want to get to so after an awkward few minutes i tap out the street name on my Blackberry phone. He nods and off we go.There is a lot of traffic made up mainly of motorbikes, thousands of them but it's all moving somehow. Slot in, push in and barge through seem to be the rules here, but they do stop at red lights!

District 1 and Pham Ngu Lao road takes about 30 minutes from the Airport, 8pm on a Monday. The rides costs 116,000 Dong on the meter, that's just over $5. It's around here that I should be able to find some accommodation. Actually the accommodation finds me The taxi pulls off and a chap calls me over, offers a place. It,s down a narrow alleyway, a clean place, double room, tv, air con, fridge, wifi and shower.  $12 a night he says, I say 10 and we settle on $11 over 7 nights.

Lots of eating, plenty of drinking all around this area. Bustling with tourists in thier hundreds, could almost be another Bangkok, but not quite.

To Vietnam January 30th 2012

War Museum and Vietnam..


I have to be at the Airport by 3pm so it's a short tour of the park, taking in the main temple sites over 4 hours. Plenty of photographic opportunities since the light is good, and it's possible to wait for a gap in the tourist trail. If time allows, the park stretches for about 40 sq kilometres and easily takes 2-3 days of viewing these temple sites, although some are falling down and could just be a pile of rubble. A few temples are enough to get the flavour of the areas heritage, much more might become a chore in hot weather! Food and drink prices are at a premium, although when I declined the price dropped by 50% for a delicious pancake with bananas and syrup. I would be cautious of eating items like rice or meat as these kitchens are makeshift bamboo shacks without normal hygiene standards.

Time to kill before the airport so Sam is taking me to the war museum. Down a dusty track and not obvious that anything is here at first. $5 to get in, then a couple of khmer Rouge victims suggest on being a guide for another 10$. Takes about 20 minutes to see an old Soviet helicopter and mig fighter jet along with about 25 tank shells and a gallery of guns.  I declined the guide.

Check-in, bag drop, bag scan and passport control all in 15 minutes. It's a small airport, modern and has free wifi.  Not much to see on the Vietnam airlines flight 812 to Ho Chi Minh City as it's dark and seat 23 is right over the wing anyway! 45 minutes into HCMC, even get served a snack. Surprisingly no interrogation via the obligatory landing card is required and it's about 30 minutes through passport control, get bags and into Vietnam. So here I am once again - strange country, nowhere to stay and it's dark.

Angkor Wat Temples 30th January 2012

Angkor Wat World Heritage Site.


The tuk tuk ride North into the Angkor Wat park is 20 minutes, stopping to pay for an entrance ticket. It's $20 for a day, more for 2 and 3 day passes. Good advice from Sam the tuk tuk driver to get here early and claim a spot by the lake. Hundreds of tourists jostle for the best position to watch and photograph sunrise over the Angkor Wat temple.

The only way to document this experience from now on is to display some representative photos that will tell a far better account than I ever could!

Many more photos on my facebook page when I get to Thailand, but for now a selection to represent World Heritage Site, Angkor Wat...

6.15am Sunrise Angkor Wat

5.50am at Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat at 5.40am

Angkor Wat Temples photos

The Angkor Wat Temples, Thousands of years old...every stone has a carving and there must be a million carvings giving an insight into the thoughts of primitive peoples of long ago.

Right click and select 'open in new tab' then you can zoom in to see more detail.

Siem Reap 29th January 2012

Siem Reap Town..


A few hours sleep and now feeling quite hungry it's time to see what the town has to offer. Quite a French feel about the place - in architecture and cuisine. Some smart hotels are here and more being built. According to the guide books all the action is around the old market and pub street, so heading there seems like a good idea.

About a 20 minute walk along the river passing an abundance of cafes, restaurants and guesthouses. Stop here for something to eat, looks ok and not too pricey.  Cross the river to what is called the old market. It's busy, it's big but like any other market between India and Cambodia, once I've  seen the first dozen or so stalls it's all the same.  The place is bustling - down small alleyways lined with cafes. Street food everywhere, restaurants in all directions and street vendors trying to sell anything from ripped DVD's, books etc..

The best place to eat here is just along from the old market area towards pub street. A huge open area is set out with stainless steel tables and chairs, where the food is cooked in full view of customers - deep fried, stir fried and steamed. Everything Asian orientated so don't come here looking for roast beef and Yorkshire pudding or pizza. It's around £1.50 for a dish of fried rice and vegetables. Very busy here, having to wait a while. But at least the food should be safe with such a heavy turnover. The place is clean to. Very little garbage, and just a few flies, not the hoards usually associated with a developing nation, and still haven't seen any Mosquitoes!

A walk along pub street reveals, yes, pubs and bars, and crammed full with tourists. I'm looking for the Temple Bar, in the guide books as having a free daily apsara show. Apsaras is a Cambodian traditional dance in costume. Here it is, and it,s almost full but enough room for me to squeeze in.  Dancing begins at 8 and lasts until about 10.15. Interesting to see their costumes, unique blend of colours on some of them. The dances are accompanied by traditional music - drums, Bongo's and others I've not seen before.

Everything about Siem Reap town is within walking distance of most guesthouses.The biggest, smartest hotels are on the Airport road, the same road the bus stops on.  It's a big walk from that road towards town! No public transport, so it's taxi or tuk tuk. Siem Reap town is clean, although the outskirts are sometimes ramshackle. Garbage is not strewn around here. Having arranged for a tuk tuk to take me to Angkor Wat 4.45am next morning (sunrise, as suggested by the driver) I had better go and get some sleep.

Last Day in Sihanoukvill

Night bus to Siem Reap..

What to do with my last few hours in Sihanoukville? Relax on Independence Beach sounds good. The monkeys are in their usual place, just beside the road. No breeze today hence this is the most humidity experience so far. Better get back, get my bags, get some supplies for the trip, and say a few goodbyes. Trouble with a monkey - seems agitated and starts to run at me, I can run too and I did, fast! The only way to get past is hop onto a moped, make a run for it that way. 


The night bus to Siem Reap is $18 and takes anything from 12 to 10 hours - depends on the road conditions and bus reliability.  An anxious 10 minute walk from the guest house to the bus station along main road, but it was quiet. I had my attack alarm ready, just in case of an opportunist attempt on my money. Looks like I'm the only one here, but I am quite early. Gradually passengers roll in on slightly overloaded tuk tuks, with backpacks and rucksacks hanging off the sides.

Bus rolls in at 8.20pm, should have been on our way by 8pm according to the ticket. It's smart, thankfully looks quite new and is air conditioned. There is some confusion about which is the bus for Siem Reap. Information is patchy but in the little English the bus representatives can speak it's clear all buses are going to Phnom Penh and stopping in Phnom Penh. Chap from new Zealand had his ticket routed to Bangkok and expected a bus to go there and I thought my bus was straight to Siem Reap, no one has mentioned changing in Phnom Penh!

The ride up to Phnom Penh is spent mostly on the opposite side of the road facing oncoming traffic overtaking a long line of lorries trundling along at 30-40mph is necessary. At least oncoming traffic slows sufficiently to let the bus overtake and pull in safely. Seats recline, more than in an airline economy seat, but still isn't any good for sleeping. It's a night bus alright, but I wouldn't say it's a sleeping bus by any means. The road up to Phnom Penh is in good condition, as good as any major British A class road.

Phnom Penh suburbs, even in the dark, is not a pretty sight. Miles and miles of garbage and ramshackle. City centre looks smarter, a few night clubs, popular judging by the thousands of mopeds parked at the front door. The company bus depot is a shabby affair with a small ticket counter and given this seems to be where all buses cross and swap passengers is somewhat a chaotic sight at 1 am Sunday morning in the rain. First I'm told to go to the ticket counter for information. They tell me to get on the bus waiting alongside, they tell me to get off as this bus is going to Bangkok. Ok, remain calm, at least I' m halfway there and it's just a few hours for the next bus! Another bus rolls in, this time interrogate the driver. Yes, this is going to Siem Reap, and it's a sleeping bus, there are no seats just bunks. Things are looking up, at least I can lay down for the next six hours.

On our way at 1.15am but nothing much to see as the bunks obscure most side views, although a forward view afforded glimpses of the road and a little bit to the side. The road upto Siem reap is not that good. Ruts, frequent rumble strips and the odd pot hole creates a bumpy ride. Maybe called a sleeping bus but there isn't going to be any sleep, even with ear plugs!

7am Siem Reap, and the bus pulls into a ramshackle, dusty compound with at least 50 tuk tuk drivers waiting to pounce. Not in the mood to hike around looking for a place to stay, so for a $1 I let a tuk tuk driver find me somewhere - he knows where, and I'm first as others roll in behind me. Quite an organised routine I would say. A basic room for $8, I just need to crash for a few hours.

Sihanoukville Images

Could be a Mamba

Beach Time

Its feeding time

Swallow

Monkey Business

Sunset Over the Island

Cruise ships at the Sihanoukville Port

Taking things Easy in Sihanoukville

Just lazing around mostly....

The remaining time in Sihanoukville is spent between Victory Hill and Independence Beach, calling at the Snake House again and various visits to Sakal's bar for lunch. The best breeze is at Independence Beach once off the road and away from the monkeys. Inland is rather humid at times and there have been thundery downpours an the odd occasion, refreshing things for a time.The currency can be confusing and I'm sure the locals play on this to their advantage! 4000 riel is exactly 1 US dollar, so working on anything smaller than 500 riel, and often at night can be somewhat amusing to some, frustrating to others. Everyone here is quite friendly. Victory Hill has a community spirit with quite a large expatriate presence, mostly Europeans, a few Aussies and some Americans.

Next...World Heritage Site at Angkor Wat, Siem Reap

8th Day in Sihanoukville 19th January 2012

Boat trip to the islands, Gulf of Thailand..

There are numerous islands off the Cambodian coast and boat trips are available every day for tourists to go and experience a few hours on a deserted island for about $15. Pick up on Victory Hill at 7.30, boat leaves Serendipity  pier 8.30 and should be back 4.30 that afternoon, lunch included.

Just 2 others from Victory Hill today. Ron and Lindsey, a middle aged  couple from Swindon join me in this old beat up banger for the short drive to a collection area for a breakfast  that consists of just a baguette and jam, tea or coffee.

Finally underway at 8.50, the Gulf of Thailand, clear, sparkling and very blue. About 24 passengers on a boat that takes 48 so there is ample room to move around with some taking the opportunity to catch a little sleep on the top deck. First stop is a small island famed for having clear waters suitable for snorkeling. Corals, anemones and loads of little stripy fish are here, but no sharks. The second stop is a large island, uninhibited with the exception of 1 shack, there to serve tourists with drinks thankfully. Clear shallow waters and white sand with palm trees for shade are pleasant enough surroundings for the next few hours.  Barbecued barracuda for lunch, very tasty.

Back to shore stopping off at another small island for more snorkeling, swimming and general messing about. It's obviously a well sailed route since plenty of tourist boats are moored here already. We have visitors as crew from those other boats climb aboard to carry out some dubious transactions on the top deck. Not for me to speculate the nature of these suspicious goings on!

A good opportunity to photo and view Cambodian islands and beaches since the sunlight is in a more favourable position in the afternoon on returning to the pier. Getting off the boat is somewhat a precarious manoeuvre since the sea level is considerably lower by 4.30. It's either jump off the top deck, which is almost level with the pier, or scramble up from the main deck. Transport back to Victory Hill and a shower at base camp.

Sihanoukville Day 7 18th January 2012

Monkeys and independence beach

After yesterday's major expedition to serendipity,  I need to do something requiring less effort. If the map is to be believed it should only be a shortish walk to independence beach, maybe half an hour or thereabouts.

The road winds down towards the smart complex that is mostly empty and fronts Hawaii beach. Locals tell me this project  was started 3 years ago with Russian money, dubious deals are the norm around here, that's all they will tell me.  on the left, some quite dense jungle whilst opposite further evidence of abandoned compounds or enclosures. It's just empty land, overgrown and occasionally a sign scribbled with the words "for sale".  A rustling noise and some kind of lizard appears and pauses, long enough for a photo.

This is a quiet road, a back road that loops towards downtown according to the map. Further on, past a ramshackle stall selling fuel in old whiskey bottles, poised on a rock is a monkey. Looking around for a moment there are several monkeys here, time for some camera action. Further on and another group of monkeys, a larger group, with an obvious pecking order when it comes to collecting the food passing tourists throw at them.  Some are screeching, hissing whilst others are lazily watching the goings on around them. Good photographic moments here, especially for the enthusiast with some serious kit!

Independence beach, named after the hotel independence built in the 60's, abandoned and now restored. Cheapest room here is $120! This is the most developed beach working round the coast from Victory to ochheutaal, with a small collection of cafes fronting the beach. White sand stretches for someway, before a rocky outcrop prevents any further exploration. Of note, there is very little garbage. A small amount towards the rocks, but close to the cafe terrace's just the odd package or carton. Looks like an ok place to eat. The prices are as I expected quite steep, similar to British seaside cafes, the difference being the food here is fresh, not processed or from a packet and microwaved.  A lazy couple of hours here before heading back to base, oh and I should mention this is the first place I've eaten and not have had to share with flies. That's right, no flies at all.

Same route back to base, stopping for half an hour to watch the monkeys. More of them now, getting upto all sorts of antics. They are good natured, until the local dog has something to say, then a bit of screeching, hissing and a yelp. Quite a gathering as locals and tourists all stop to watch, throwing peanuts, bananas and even a can of pop. Sunset is just after 6, but is obscured by the island, the one the Russians have bought, but still quite a decent photo. 

Sihanoukville Images

Local Life

Politics everywhere

Smooth part of Victory Hill

Street Scene

Quiet Road in Sihanoukville

It's an uphill struggle

oops!

Sixth Day in Sihanoukville 17th January 2012

Business Before Pleasure....

Today it's business before pleasure! If my itinerary is to remain intact then I must obtain a Vietnamese tourist visa to enter Vietnam, get a bus ticket to Siem Reap, and find an air ticket into Saigon. All of this has to be done downtown and if I leave early enough should be able to get a look at Ochheutaal and Serendipity beach's. Not as hot today, slightly overcast which comes as a slight relief. The Victory monument takes prominence on the hill top - victory to what, I don't know yet. Not much traffic about at 1030am as I head down towards the Vietnamese Consulate. Most tourists (backpackers mainly) between Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon to locals) stage through here as a half way break, so to find a Vietnamese consulate here is not surprising and quite handy - saves a 5 hour bus ride up to Phnom Penh! In sharp contrast to the Indian visa, this form is simple, who am I, where do I live and what will I be doing Vietnam? Hand over the passport, 1 photo and $45. Takes about five minutes to process and I'm on my way. Top marks to the Vietnamese, they obviously want and encourage tourism.

Travel agencies and ticket counters are numerous around the downtown area. I pick on what looks like an all services agency - bus, air, bikes and boats, everything that requires a ticket. There are several buses going to Siem Reap daily and a couple of overnight services. I'm told the overnight seats recline enough for sleeping, was shown a picture and subsequently sold a ticket for $18. A future blog will reveal if I was told the truth! SCAM ALERT! I enquired about bus tickets to Siem Reap from a ticket desk, part of a guest house service. They said the ticket price will be higher because of Chinese New Year. This is untrue. The price I obtained from downtown was the published price for the bus type. Another tourist scam to watch from guest houses and obscure ticket counters - purchasing a ticket from them doesn't necessarily mean a guaranteed seat as they often pocket all or part of the ticket money. The bus driver wont let you on if he hasn't received all his fare! The mini bus services are more prone to this than full size buses. An air ticket is the same price as the published air fare, no special promotions or deals available. It's 112 pounds one way over to Saigon from Siem Reap with Vietnam Airlines, half of that paid for by Grandad, with money left over from Christmas - Thanks GPR.

Business done! It's beach time. also feeding time. Serendipity marks the beginning of Sihanoukville's touristed beaches -  long beaches with miles of shacks, cafes and hawkers disappearing beyond view, well, that's according to web research, so I'll let you know if that's really the case.Continuing past downtown the area becomes significantly touristy and all that go's with it. Surprisingly less garbage strewn about, more accommodation options and rising prices closer towards the beach - significantly busier with people and traffic, but still not hectic or anywhere near the chaotic scenes experienced in Goa! Up ahead, two golden lions statues mounted forming a traffic circle (roundabout to the British), a significant local landmark indicating beaches not too far away. It's been a long walk, about the same again as it was from Victory Hill, about 35 minutes. I can see some street food just along a side road off the roundabout, the first food for quite some time, or so it felt anyway. It's not carts, but fixed and covered, a more organised setup and not too many flies, yep, it';s time to eat. Snakes, Frogs and Beetles are displayed before anything else. I'm more than pleased to find a traditional menu of noodles, rice etc..snakes, beetles and frogs - I don't think so!

Serendipity and Ochheutaal are really the same beach, one long strip of white sand with a paved terrace set slightly back, providing a sound base for hundreds of deck chairs, tables, cafes, drink stands and then more deck chairs on the sand with beech sellers in between - as far as the eye can see. But despite the capacity, still not that many people here given this is the high season. An equal mix of Northern Europeans and Asians of all ages with saggy overweight to quite slim and fit,fit and athletic looking builds. The sky is rather ominous looking, has been for the last hour or so, looks like rain! It does rain, rains hard too, and quite suddenly. A sudden exodus from the beach for some whilst others seem to enjoy the cooling effect of this monsoon downpour.

Finally the rain subsides a little, eventually stops and allows business to resume after about an hour. Time I was heading back since it's a long trek. Serendipity Beach is where the tourist boats are anchored or tied to the jetty, a picturesque scene as the sun begins to sink. To the very end of the jetty and a good photo of the beach with the low sunlight giving everything that bright golden hue. It's a long walk back to base alright, over an hour. Just going to call into the supermarket for some milk. Quite a recent building, looks clean and new. Definitely not for locals, but here to supply tourists, with prices to match. Half litre of milk is about 70p, that's more than Tesco's! Biscuits, snacks, commodities etc are all priced similar to those we see in the UK. So, for Scandinavians still a bargain to be had here!

Just about dark, and it's starting to rain again as I reach Victory Hill. Gets dark at 6pm, light again around 6.45am. Get some water, get out of these clothes and crash for a couple of hours before dinner.

Photos are here...

Next....Independence Day and Monkey Business.

Day 5 in Snookyville 16th January 2012

Where is everyone?

Today, it's going to be the Snake House as marked on the map. A quick google suggests Snake House is terminology used in the USA for a Jail. The Sihanoukville Snake House is a snake and crocodile centre, just need to find it! The route meanders close to the shore so might as well walk on the beach, get some breeze. A short cut seems to be through this resort complex, one side complete whilst the other is incomplete with nothing much going on. A smart complex, with apartments to buy or rent, all empty with 1 or 2 exceptions and a few locals who work on-site seem to be in residence. The beach is empty to, although evidence of past activity exists, old shacks, a few glass bottles strewn around - an eery situation. abandoned compounds lay just meters back, this particular one has what I would guess at is a landing area for a couple of helicopters, further evidence that this area was once a thriving playground. An old sign indicates this is Hawaii Beach Resort  - a future resurrection project perhaps. There is plenty of building going on, former resorts being restored and resurrected with foreign investment leading the charge - a big Russian influence here I am told. Unfortunately, people are not coming, not yet anyway. Resorts, complexes and the smarter hotels are mostly empty, some laying empty for a while it seems.

Snake House then, but the map isn't giving me the picture I need - typical. The locals tell me to head down this rough, dusty track and keep straight. It's that red dust the same kind I found in India, and gets in the throat. It's hot, no breeze and the track is a long one, but there it is, the Snake House.  I need a drink before looking around here. They have a crocodile in the restaurant, I can sit next to it and have my drink - well almost. Thankfully it's on a chain and looks rather sleepy, as if it's already eaten recently, so I feel quite safe. Through into the garden area reveals several glass boxes housing snakes, cages with parrots, a pit with crocodiles and then more snakes, everywhere - all in glass boxes I hasten to add!. Cobras, Pythons, green snakes, white snakes, all the snake varieties to be found in Cambodia are here. It's possible to get close, very close to a few of the most venomous snakes on the planet - defiantly not for people with a nervous disposition! The cobras will spit, some will strike without any warning - quite alarming the first time when attempting a close up photo. A fascinating couple of hours can be spent here, free with a purchase from the restaurant or bar, otherwise it's $3. Some tables are fixed so that customers can eat with a python sliding around beneath - a unique idea! A coffee here costs $2.20, a sandwich is around $2 whilst meals are expensive. It seems there is a Russian influence here also.

Next....Vietnamese Consulate and $45, a bus ticket to Siem Reap and a flight ticket down to saigon.

Fourth Day in Sihanoukville January 15th 2012

Downtown and the biggest market ever...

Transport options around here are rather limited - no local buses. So to travel any distance it's either hire a moped at $4-5 per day, get a tuk tuk ($2 for downtown), jump on a moped that's being driven by a local ($1 downtown) or walk. The downtown area doesn't look all that far, maybe half an hours walk. The road to downtown is well kept and wide, wide enough for the locals to pass by safely. From the top of Victory Hill the road drops down, rises over another hill and on into the town. It's a picturesque walk, the mountain on the left, habitations nestled at the base. Dusty lanes with ramshackle dwellings along with strewn garbage as downtown comes into view from the second hill top.

A marked increase in traffic as some major junctions intersect - although how they manage to negotiate these without incident is quite impressive as no one stops for a red light! For a developing country, the main streets and most buildings are in surprisingly good order. Side streets however are somewhat less attractive, quite dirty with garbage and the whiff of a dead fish every so often. A good shopping experience on the wide boulevard through town much like any other British town, with travel agents, banks, ATMs and supermarkets much like a British Tesco Express, modern and air conditioned. This is quite obviously an up and coming town where the emerging middle classes are discovering the joys of consumerism.

The market (Phsar Leu) is sign posted off to the left along a side road about 300 yards. That must be it, a bright blue warehouse type building , a narrow entrance cluttered with hundreds of mopeds. It's huge and it's hot! fruit and vegetables as far as the eye can see. The place is a maze of narrow alleyways, each row bustling with locals and one or two tourists. Wall to wall food being cooked, plenty of variety - more so than of late on Victory Hill. This is too good to pass by. Each stall is busy, there is a good turnover and they cook in full view of customers. A plate of fried noodles with vegetables and ginger then rice balls in a coconut soup - delicious. This market is too big and I'm hot and tired. Better start walking back to base - it's easily 35-40 minutes, however I shall stop for coffee along the way - that could take an hour maybe two, soaking up the local atmosphere.

Day 3 in Sihanoukville 14th January 2012

The port, the old railway and old stinky...



Studying the map over breakfast an agenda takes shape. I'm going to investigate the port area of town. The map shows a railway line so there might be something of interest to photograph, also there appears to be some indication of a beach just prior to the port, so this might be worth a look and it's in a different direction to previous treks.

On to the main road this time, down the hill towards the bright blue sea and some quite smart, expensive looking hotels ahead and a casino on the left. Surprisingly, very few vehicles around and just not that many people either, tourists or locals. On the way down however, a chance to snap some local life and a banana plant in flower. Across the road, the same road that turns into a boulevard further up, and onto the Beach. It's a very narrow strip of sand, sadly littered with garbage and various bits of indescribable trash. A bit smelly too, with some dubious looking liquid discharge in several places. An odd place to plonk a smart resort type hotel then. Walking through the hotel grounds and restaurant terrace, again there is a distinct lack people - more waiters and waitresses than customers, and this is the weekend when Phnom Penh empties and Sihanoukville fills up, if research is to be believed.

Moving on then, towards the main port. Not much to see actually since the view is obscured with warehouses. Joe public is not allowed to enter as is indicated with a sideways nod from the guard on the gate, although I'm sure a little financial persuasion might have done the trick. Not risking a trip to jail for the sake of a photo, so following the boundary path, really just to see whats around the corner. It's evident to any visitor that this once might have been a thriving area, but now old market stalls lay dilapidated with piles of garbage strewn along the port wall, along with the inevitable army of flies and the whiff of an old rotting fish. In between all of this, a makeshift cafe, for local dockers probably - I don't see any other tourists around.

Just around the corner lies the railway line as indicated by the map. It's coming from the port and follows the main road, or it used to. Just beyond an old lever mechanism, the tracks have been removed and the reason why is plain to see I guess. About 50 or so trucks line the road, queueing in the hope of getting a container to transport, sometime soon, today perhaps tomorrow!

Across the road and back towards base there are shops - snacks and drinks mostly. Numerous cafes facing the dock gates, but there are again hoards of flies. Open drains and garbage, and it's quite stinky here too! Obviously an area reserved for locals and dock workers who may be immune to such surroundings. This clearly is not the touristed part of town, but part of Sihanoukville life all the same. To early yet for base camp, so it's off to the beach and a chance to checkout the beach huts and bars between the Port and Victory. It's expensive, compared to up the hill and I can ascertain there is a heavy Russian influence. The menus are in Russian and some of the staff are of the Russian variety too, not to mention the cocktails available! Maybe another time.

419 photos here..

Sihanoukville Day 2 13th January 2012

The Airport, Victory Beach.

The only breakfast cereal available in cafes seems to be cornflakes, never been keen on cornflakes so I'll settle on fresh fruit salad with yogurt, along with a fresh coffee, which is served by the half pint. Breakfast here is good value at 10,500 Riel. That's more or less $2.50 or 1.67 pounds.There is of course the greasy option which most westerners around here seem to find acceptable.

Today's agenda of sorts comprises of 1 must see, and the rest made up as and when. The Airport bar needs extensive investigation - not because I want to drink myself silly, but they have an old aeroplane as a central feature. It's not just any aeroplane either, it's a Russian propeller driven airliner, similar to the Fokker Friendships that most natives of Norfolk and those around the airport are familiar with. It's actually a smart place with a dance floor under the wings and lounging upstairs beneath the tail section. The cockpit is assessable, so up the spiral staircase and into the pilots seat. Well, actually the seats are removed but everything else is intact from the engine controls to the navigators station.

Anywhere on the beach is pricey as far as food and drink are concerned and here is no exception. Its more or less double the price of those places up the hill, but even so, still about half the price of a similar purchase in the UK. I settle on a bottle of water for 75p and an hour or so sitting in the breeze looking out over Victory beach. Just about every place around here has a free wifi connection, so a chance to login and get the latest emails.

Don't feel like any extensive street pounding today so it's across the road to Sakal's for lunch. Noodle soup at $1.75 then a couple of hours lounging around with a coffee, oh, and more free wifi! Up the hill again, which is quite hard work sometimes, and back to base for a couple of hours of wifi and probably a nap.

Dinner is fried noodles with vegetables, usually a safe bet. It's at the same place as breakfast - a moderately busy little cafe constructed of brick and tin. No waiters, it's just the cook and his wife, with nanna helping out  when the baby is in a settled mood! Food and a coffee works out to about 1.67 pounds. Nightlife seems to be doing a brisk trade, but that's for a blog further along...

Sihanoukville...the first day 12th January 2012

Finally in Sihanoukville, Cambodia 12 January 2012

I've been to a developing country before so I know reasonably well what to expect this time. Kids running around in rags, garbage and trash strewn everywhere, power cuts and flies. My first few steps onto Victory Hill reveal, I suppose some might say a rustic charm just about everywhere. Priority now is to find Sakal, the place I had corresponded with prior to arriving here. I'm pointed down the hill, towards the beach. The lanes are rough, really need hiking boots! The surface improves further down the hill and almost at the bottom are the Sakal Bungalows and Guesthouse. The guesthouse part looks quite smart from the outside, but the bungalows are little more than medium sized sheds on stilts - Just enough room to swing a cat, but on the plus side each unit has a private toilet and shower. Personaly, I would feel clostrophobic staying in a bungalow and wasn't keen on spending any time in one, but turns out to be irrelevant anyway because they are full up. The restaurant is smart, relaxed and informal with a reasonably priced menu. Might as well eat here and consider my next move.


Refuelled, it's back up the hill to negotiate with Green Mood. Lodgings secured for the next 7 days at 5 us$ per night, that's 3.35 pounds give or take a few pence. There are lodgings and guesthouses all over the place - along this street, round the corner and down the hill. 5-10 us$ per night seems to be an average for Joe tourist who turns up unannounced. There are better deals to be negotiated for long term stays - more than 4 weeks so I'm told by an American chap, left over from the war with Vietnam.


Time to go exploring. January is supposed to be cool according to various web sources. It's about 31 degrees c and quite humid but occasionally breezy, providing temporary relief. Down the hill again towards the sea. Garbage is strewn, fly tipped extensively, although occasionally there are  organised piles of black bags. Despite this the view down the hill is still quite picturesque. The bungalows (sheds on stilts) are set amongst lush tropical vegetation, colourful with associated bird song and that scratching noise made by crickets. Dwellings constructed of timber and corrugated iron are dotted about, but surprisingly not that many. A main road crosses bottom of the hill, opposite is Victory Beach, a pier and an sign that has Airport spanning it's width! A quick nose around here and I'm astonished to find an old plane mounted on pillars in a building made to look like a hangar. it's a bar and restaurant by day and a disco by night. The plane is an old Russian manufactured airliner - neat! More investigation here required tomorrow but for now it's a walk along the small beach and back onto the boulevard, which is looked after extensively. Nicely painted pillars, well kept grass and a monument to the Vietnamese, possibly something to do with them driving out the Khmer Rouge.

I'm feeling quite tired, still slightly jet lagged and the humidity is sapping my energy. I need to head back to Green Moods. Drink some water, there's plenty of it around. Seems like every few yards there is a cart or makeshift stall selling among the usual fruits and snacks, bottled water. 12p for a small bottle from roadside vendors, but 25p from organised shops.Another thing every few yards - a collection of men with mopeds and tuk tuks. They seem convinced I need a moto or tuk tuk ride! I don't need a ride, not today thank you. Every street corner has this collection of individuals, and inbetween, every few moments a moped rider pulls alongside, again convinced I need a ride. I don't really have anywhere to ride to really. It's a routine to get accustomed to if since my intention is trekking everywhere - within reason of course. Day 1 over and initial thoughts are that there is a distinct lack of people and traffic around. I imagined this to be a busy place. Also, It's not the complete culture shock first timers to a developing country usually experience. There is infrastructure and organisation evident in numerous building projects  - this country is moving forward with the Russians having quite a significant presence.


My Photos of Sihanoukville are here...

Photo's Departure Day

Over Afghanistan...

Planes at Delhi Airport...

Bangkok Boulevard...

Bangkok to Phnom Penh, Cambodia 11th January 2012

Phnom Penh...

I'm off to Phnom Penh, the day has arrived and to be totally honest I'm feeling slightly anxious about this part of the trip. If articles and blogs are to be believed then I could be in for a rough time. Scams by taxi drivers are quite widespread across the city - they pretend to understand when actually they don't. Being dropped off elsewhere in front of an expensive hotel where they get paid a commission by the owner - arriving in Pnohm Penh daytime is bad enough but at night, no thanks! Remember, this is just what I've read by fellow travellers, not my experiences - how could it be, I'm not there yet!

Breakfast, fruit and yogurt and coffee before finding an internet cafe with a printer. I had an Air Asia low cost ticket (55 pounds) which meant I had to web check-in and print my boarding pass. Flight was at 3.15pm but I wanted to be early, early enough for a good nose around, well, those who know me also know I like a good airport with a good variety of tarmac action.


There isn't that much packing to do because I didn't take that much and what I did take, well, wasn't worth unpacking for a couple of days anyway. Back to the airport then and finding a taxi or tuktuk isn't hard, infact they find you - taxi drivers have an uncanny knack of flagging down a perspective fare from quite a distance. I'm shocked to learn of a 130 percent price hike compared to getting here. "Traffic jams, Bangkok bad", mutters the driver. I don't suppose we were stationary for anymore than 10 minutes all told - traffic jams indeed!. If this is a traffic jam, lets show this character the M25 or the A406 or even Long John Hill at 5pm.


The station is new, so new you could eat off the floor. The line for the airport is on the third floor, and that's where passengers get the tickets. Finally on the last leg to the airport and some great opportunities to snap the Bangkok skyline from this elevated train ride which also passes beside slums. Not huge slums as is well documented in cities like Mumbai or Rio, but communities that have been forgotten, passed by in the rush to capitalise on a booming Asian economy.


Air Asia check-in is surprisingly smooth. I half expected a Ryan Air situation - have to pay extra for this and that, but no I am good to go after just a few minutes of labelling bags. Now here's a challenge. try saying 'Suvarnbhumi' after a few too many drinks.That's the name of this airport which clearly is relatively new. Bright, spotlessly clean in all departments and plenty to see on the tarmac! Flight 3616 is late quite a lot late. 1515 departure time, and 1515 still sitting in the terminal. Which means by the time I get to downtown Phnom Penh it will be dark - I'm not liking that prospect at all.


Airborne at 1630 for the 1 hour flight across to Phnom Penh, the grand capital of Cambodia. It's a country steeped in history and has suffered conflict. Just Google 'Khmer Rouge' to discover some recent gruesome history. Immigration at Phnom Penh has been documented as being quite straight forward, and indeed it is, refreshingly so. First get your visa - fill in a simple form and hand over your passport with 2 photos. No photos, no problem, just look straight ahead and 'Youv'e been framed' to coin a phrase. Next wait to be called forward, hand over your $20 and go to passport control. There you have your documents examined, fingerprints recorded and off to get the bags.The whole process done in 30 minutes. The airport is new, smart but quite small, probably room for 3 or 4 sizable jets at any one time. 


So, here I am in a strange place reputed to be on the dodgy side and it's nearly dark! Perhaps the airport information can get me a place to stay, I don't really fancy wandering around in the dark looking like an obvious target for a spot of criminality. Of course, it wouldn't be dark if the flight had been on time. Joining the queue at the desk there seems to be some debate with backpackers about getting transport to Sihanoukville. The last bus was an hour ago. "I'm going there tomorrow", I casually mention. For about 90 us$ we can hire a taxi and get there tonight - done deal, count me in. Four of us, me, a girl from Bristol with her Spanish boyfriend and a chap from Sweden all cram into, well lets just say a middle aged looking car, and thus begins quite a scary ride south along National Highway 4.


But before getting going, we all need to get out and into another car, a newer version and with air con. It's some kind of wheeling dealing between the taxi drivers - but I'm glad of the significant upgrade. Another stop slightly further on - it's a ciggy break for our new driver. An opportune moment then to stock up on drink and snacks as there is a cart selling such goods - 1 us$ for a bottle of water. Off we go then, averaging a speed of about 30 mph. The road is crowded with carts, bikes, trucks and anything else that can be constructed to transport goods and people. Hundreds of people line both sides of the 3 lane highway waiting for anything that will transport them home from factories - mini buses so overloaded noses are almost against the window and trucks with people standing, crowded like shoulder to shoulder. All this overcrowding is clogging up the highway with it's rather precarious 3 lane system. It's an overtaking lane with trucks vans and of course fast cars on both sides jostling for a space in the third lane. It's scary watching drivers attain head on narrowly avoiding a crunch, even scarier when our driver attains the same position, very scary indeed! Horns  blowing, head lights flashing and tyres screeching, as much as I want to, I didn't dare nod off!




Added to all this there are motos and cyclists weaving against the flow riding without lights or just one light as is the case with many vehicles. The chaos and mayhem finally subsides about 50 minutes into the journey with just the odd overloaded truck or minibus to pass and even as the road narrows to 2 lanes there is very little to worry about now and it's quite possible to relax, even catch a nap. Nothing of any significance to see along Highway 4 in the dark. An occasional cluster of lights, a makeshift garage perhaps along with a few huts dotted around. Not far from Sihanoukville as a road sign suggests. The driver turns down a rather small road, bumpy, obviously lacking in upkeep. First thought here is the driver is going to stop in an obscure location and demand more money to finish the trip - that's a well known nighttime scam not just in Cambodia, but Vietnam aswell, and nothing much can be done! Not the case this time thankfully as Sihanoukville looms ahead. The deal is to drop us in the town, but for an extra $5 the driver will drive on to the area known as Victory Hill, renowned for it's variety of accommodation and nightlife. A few steps along the rickety street reveals guest houses either side. Green Mood looks reasonable from the outside, and lets say has a rustic charm on the inside. Well, what do you expect for 3.35 ukp per night! Actually, it's quite adequate - running water, electricity and Wifi. It's a double room with a ceiling fan and the bed is quite comfortable - good night!



My Photos of Cambodia are here...

Bangkok Day 2 10th January 2012

University, the ferry, school run and hospital…

More pounding of Bangkok streets today, not with any particular plan in mind but just explore and soak up the Bangkok way of life. Breakfast time, or rather lunch time now, oh well I needed the sleep. A bowl of fruit salad with natural yogurt precedes a cup of coffee for about 2.10 pounds then must make a start.

Quite familiar with the network of allyeways that makes up the Khao san area since I must travelled most of them yesterday, at least twice over. Following a few of the other backpackers I’m sure they’re going somewhere interesting – yes I can spot a wat (temple) in the distance. Not so hot today, quite pleasant with an overcast and a breeze, must be about 29-30ish. The backpackers were going to catch a bus, maybe a coach for a long interstate journey and that temple looked way too far for the effort required today.

The boulevard has an underpass this end, makes sense to use it and head in the direction of another temple complex I spotted yesterday. There is a tourist information office, actually, some smart buildings are prominent around here. It’s the river front, with a pier and of course boats – tourist boats for about 12 pounds. The trip will last an hour and takes in a circuit of tributaries, so I am informed. Oh yes, need to wait for a few more people to turn up or the boat is yours for 1,500 baht. Not something I wanted to do there and then, maybe next time. Just next door is a little coffee shop – coffee time it is then and a chance to read some tourist info.

I can here a school, that kind of class room din along with a music lesson of sorts. A rather rundown block opposite doesn’t look like any obvious school building, but that’s where it’s all coming from. Some rather smart, expensive cars are coming and going from an entrance near by. Investigation reveals a huge complex of buildings – a school, college and university all in. No security since I can wander around quite freely glancing through windows of class rooms and take a seat in the eating area. About a dozen kiosks selling Chinese food mainly although I notice some typical western style ads for burger and chips, all at student prices (About 80p for a meal). It’s a really nice spot to eat lunch since the place sits directly on the river front, with boats plying up and down with mostly tourists.

Sand bags line the river bank and the most vulnerable of the university buildings. Evidence of the recent flooding here and looks more expected. The main building is high, perhaps 7 floors, but the climb should be worth it. Short of taking a helicopter ride, this has to be the next best thing – a panoramic view of Bangkok city skyline looking right along the river from the top floor of the university building. A truly memorable experience – probably shouldn't be here though, oh well. 


Next...stumbling upon a local ferry service and chaos around the hospital. Also the King visits.

Bangkok Day 2 10th January 2012 Conclusion

Concluding a short tour of Bangkok...


Noticed from the top floor, just beyond the campus is a ferry terminal although not obvious at first looking down on a plethora of watercraft. OK, so that's my next goal - find the ferry that crosses this river. easier said than done. No obvious signage, not in English anyway and no picture indications for average Joe tourist either. A little guess work involved here then - a market to negotiate, a side street and a few more market stalls that obscure the waterfront view, but its got to be around here. Very few people speak English in this part of town, and those that do, only a few words but eventually I'm pointed to a spot just along the front. Yep, there it is, so obscure it's no wonder I'm the only tourist around.


It's about 5p to cross the river on this little foot ferry that ply back and forth all day long (according to the notice board, which is in English!). It's a good time to get the camera out and snap various aspects of Bangkok river life before docking at the Black Canyon Coffee House. Through the turnstile and into another maze of alleyways - looks like a covered market of sorts that leads onto a single main street. Quite a wide street, but crammed on both sides with people, mostly kids just out of school waiting for their transport. I would describe the scene here as chaotic - everything and everyone confined to the narrow paths. Food carts, thousands of kids and traffic to match all vying for limited space. Adding to the chaos, the city hospital exits a little further down. A complex of modern high rise structures with a carefully manicured park, and a makeshift temple right at the centre. I'm limiting my exploration to the ground floor - time is limited as sunset approaches and I'm sure security will be running after me at some point. The park here is just a quiet escape from the mayhem outside, a time to calm down, sit down and relax.

An intersection ahead with a pedestrian overpass, how thoughtful! A good vantage point for some more camera work. Something wasn't quite right though. Traffic is being withheld, and I'm being pointed at by a policeman. Oh dear! Looks like I'm being told to move on - yep, good idea. Back towards the ferry, hopefully I can find it again. Progress is slow since the amount of people congregating seems to have doubled. "What's happening", I ask. The young girl replies "everyone is waiting for the king".Seconds later a motorcade sweeps past - to quick for any camera action!

Again, no signage to the ferry, but I am well placed to find it since I can recognise some of the alleyways. Another 5p and some further snap of river life, this time at sunset. Now that I have my orientation figured out, getting back to base will be easy, routing back through the campus. a food booth was still open - looks good to. To good to miss in fact so a bowl of pasta with herb tomato for 25p just had to be consumed. Coffee, Wifi and crash - that concludes day 2 in Bangkok.


Next....Preparing for Cambodia and the scariest ride ever!

Bangkok Day 1 9th January 2012 Conclusion

A few tentative steps that turns into a 6 hour marathon…

Taking stock of where I am – If I get back to that side of the boulevard and about three quarters of the way along, I should be able to find that bar, the one that lets people wander through to the lane at the rear. From there, I should find my way to the guest house easily enough. 

Continuing, after having crossed all 8 lanes without incident, I notice a glint in the clear blue sky. Further along and several gold encrusted spires rise prominently. It’s some kind of religious complex – church or monastery. Turns out that this is where the local monks reside. Very serene, surprisingly peaceful considering the proximity of the highway. Time to rest as the heat takes it’s toll on weary jet lagged travelers like me. At the entrance  a little stall sells trinkets and more importantly bottled water (25p), just what I needed.

A slight change of plan since I’m not all that tired. Head back, but go via Khao San Road. Any Google search with “Khao San” will reveal a wealth of information, but in brief, it’s the Bangkok backpackers hangout. A street brimming with life, excitement and exuberance. And it was, again food end to end and there are considerably more people here – packed out actually. It’s vibrant, colorful and atmospheric!

feeling quite tired, been pounding these streets for 5 hours now but somehow excitement, maybe adrenaline, keeps me going. Okay, so I know where the boulevard is and I need to be in this direction, so if I cut through to that lane then I should be back at the guesthouse pretty soon.

I have to admit I’m completely lost! Trying to take that short cut was a mistake as it just leads to more alleyways going in different directions. Back to the boulevard, but it’s dark and I can’t find that bar, the one that provided a way to the street I was staying on. As it turns out, I’m not that far away. Go back towards Khoa San, find the 999, cut through there, left to the end and straight over are the directions I’m given. Good, there’s the place, a polite nod to the reception boy, up the stairs, through the door – crash (that means sleep)

So that’s how an intentional couple of hours round the block turned into a marathon. The map I had was pretty useless – not detailed enough, should have brought my TomTom.


Next...getting ready for the Cambodian experience and the scariest ride of my life!

Bangkok Day 1 9th January 2012

A few tentative steps that turns into a 6 hour marathon…

Not particularly jet lagged but as to be expected sleeping patterns are somewhat awry. Bed at 4am and awake by 11am – actually it’s just like a normal weekend night out. Priority right now is food – the aroma of Chinese and Thai cuisine just puts any thoughts of KFC, MacDonald’s and all that western gunk we’ve grown up with to the furthest, darkest corner of ones mind. It’s warm; very warm indeed – about 31 deg c with a nice breeze. 3 steps to the right is a café, 3 steps to the left is another café and directly opposite is a food cart. Soi Rambuttri (Rambuttri Street) is crammed with cafes, carts and guesthouses and of course backpackers mostly from Europe, Australia and the USA. Brunch is a plate of Padthai and coffee (2 pounds) then a glance at the tourist map and a glance it was since this isn’t going to be any major expedition – a few steps around the block will do for a jet lagged (sort of), first timer in a crowded city that is Bangkok.

The place is a maze of side streets, alleyways and lanes all lined with either ( and mostly) food, a shop, massage places, bars, stalls – The Bangkok experience in part. The end the of the street, a dead end by the looks of things. Oh look, there’s sign, hand painted onto some iron paneling inviting lost trekkers to climb the fire escape, go through the bar and drop down to the street beyond – I didn’t stop for a drink though.

Crossing the eight lane boulevards are easy enough with well controlled traffic lighting systems that I haven’t seen anywhere else in the world. A 30 second countdown light located above the road and everyone can see when the lights are about to change. Their Boulevards, expressways and highways are a sight to behold with monuments every few yards along the central divisions and occasionally arching the complete highway. This is a nation where its people stand in pride with patriotism flagged on every street. Thai’s seem almost as patriotic as Americans! That’s the impression average Jo tourist is getting and I’m sure that’s the case.

Tune in soon and read about getting lost, some stunning architecture and the Khao San experience…concluding day 1 in Bangkok. Please check my facebook page for photo updates.

Departure Day: Saturday 7th into Sunday 9th January 2012

A Never Ending Flight But The Scenery Was Stunning.

The never ending flight, or so it seemed, despite a strong tailwind giving about a 90 minute advantage on the first leg into Delhi Indira Gandhi Airport. The seats were comfortable with generous leg room, but service was nothing special – no coffee until breakfast time. The meal option was chicken curry or something vegetarian, take it or leave it. Juice or wine just before the meal and water with the meal. By breakfast I was somewhat dehydrated! Oh well, I know what to do if I end up on Jet Airways again, and it’s not take a first class seat, but just take a flask of coffee.

Napping here and there, probably a couple of hours all told. Awoke to daylight and the scene down below was just one of stunning beauty. The mountain ranges of Afghanistan were completely snow covered and went on for miles on end - didn’t spot any troops though.

The final leg into Bangkok was another 3 hours 40 minutes with the flight routing down through Burma. Seating was uncomfortable and leg room was measly this time. Lunch was Juice or water followed by chicken curry or something vegetarian once again. No hot beverage the entire flight! Any contents in my flask would have been cold by now anyway – perhaps I can get something when we land.

Crossing into Thai airspace and soon the extent of the recent flooding was evident – water everywhere, contained mostly in fields but clearly communities are being affected. Got a good view of Bangkok city as the plane flew past the airport towards the coast before turning to follow a Thai Airways Airbus. The sun was setting; the scene below was one of an exotic pinkish glow! I was pleased to be on the ground, just wanted to get off now – as much as I enjoy flying, this was a getting a bit tedious! Getting through immigration was an arduous affair. The queues were long, getting longer, not moving any at appreciable pace and nowhere to get a drink. 90 minutes later, my passport stamped and off to the baggage belt – would my backpack be there and if so, in one piece. Yes, there it was and just as heavy – good.

It was dark, buses to the part of the city I needed had finished (being a Sunday) and I didn’t have anywhere to stay….tune in for the next installment soon

So here I am, in a strange town - It was dark, buses to the part of the city I needed had finished (being a Sunday) and I didn’t have anywhere to stay. I need to get to Khao San Road, a place you could call guest house ally. A little research at the public information desk revealed that a recently opened rail link to downtown gets me halfway to Khao San, but a taxi ride is the only way to finish the journey. Where ever I am in the world I try not to take taxi rides in favor of public transport at every opportunity, but this time I am clearly out of options!

The train station, located underneath the airport terminal, is spotlessly clean. So clean, one can almost see a reflection of themselves on the floor. Waiting along with backpacking Germans, Finns, Dutch, Aussies and the odd American for the City Train – it’s every 15 minutes until late. For Khao San Road, it’s the last station on the line (Phaya Thai), costs 1 pound and takes 17 minutes – now I was feeling more optimistic, less apprehensive and slightly more energetic – perhaps I was beyond that being totally knackered feeling. There’s no orderly line when getting a cab, it’s who can wave the most and shout the loudest! Getting the taxi driver to understand where to go was another challenge as he spoke very little English, but eventually we came to an understanding, and for about 1.10 pounds to finish the journey I wasn’t going to argue.

Firstly, find somewhere to sleep, secondly get a coffee and lastly eat. It all came in relatively quick succession. A 5 minute trek down an ally way revealed guest houses on both sides ranging from 800 to 350 Thai Baht (about 17 – 7 pounds). Greens guest house was clean, TV and aircon, this’ll do for 9 quid. 2 coffees and my first Thai meal – a yellow chicken curry, absolutely exquisite but then I hadn’t had a good meal for about 24 hours! A modest café, full of likeminded individuals backpacking around Asia, the bill came in at a hefty 3 pounds and 70p. I forgot to mention the earlier taxi ride came to 67 Baht on the meter, about 1 pound 60p for a further 15 minute ride.

Next, read about how a short, round the block exploration turned into a 6 hour marathon..