Penang, Malaysia 28th March 2012

Looking Back

Penang, Malaysia..

Approaching midday and thoughts turn to the subject of food and something to drink, but what? There isn't any, no water for sale, no sandwiches or snacks, not even locals getting on at the stops trying to sell such goods. It's the same throughout the train, although 1 person had the foresight to bring supplies, sadly not enough to feed everyone. I can smell coffee, yes, the attendant is taking some to the carriage behind, and that sets the scene for the next 30 minutes or so as he runs back and forth with coffee for everyone else too, and not bad either for 20 baht, 44p.

It's a long journey through some dense vegetation at times. Rubber tree plantations with the catching cups attached, and I did spot colourful and exotic birds occasionally. The IPod also comes in handy with these downloaded audio files (CBSRMT), helping to pass the time.

Butterworth, the end of the line and the start of another culture, another town and another adventure in a different country - 4 weeks around Malaysia starting from now! The train pulls into the station, next to the Eastern Oriental Express, the same train I saw at an obscure station on the way the River Kwai a few weeks ago. The station here is being rebuilt, so a temporary portacabin houses the ticket counters and money changing facilities, but no ATM. I was able to exchange the remaining Thai currency I had into Ringits, essential for onward travel to Penang. The nearest bank or ATM was some distance away into Butterworth town according to a taxi driver. Money in hand, off to find the ferry terminal for boats to Penang Island.

First sight of Georgetown, Penang

The train station is next to the bus station, which is next to the ferry terminal. It's about a 10 minute walk, taking into account confusion about where exactly where to go. Thankfully, a few other tourists are clutching their Lonely Planet guides, and seem to have a good sense of direction. Up the steps onto the dock, and there it is, Penang Island, closer than I had imagined it to be though. It's a nice photo, with mountains providing a dramatic  backdrop to the highrise and harbours that is Georgetown, Penang's Capital and a world heritage site. Access onto the ferry is through a turnstile costing 1.4 RM, 29p, well used despite their being a road bridge further down towards the southern part of Butterworth. The crossing is about 15 minutes, a cool breeze giving some relief from the heat. 3pm, stepping off the ferry and into Penang, some 24 hours and 10 minutes since leaving Bangkok. It's a long journey, but a good one and not at all tiresome with plenty of room to stretch out - just remember to stock up on supplies and bring an IPod!

Penang Ferry

A bus station and a tourist information kiosk located just a short jaunt from the ferry has all the bus information on how to get to Chulia street. That's the street backpackers make for, it's where to find some good and cheap accommodation according to Websites and travel blogs. Bus 201 stops by the 7 eleven, about 1/2 way up this long road and costs 1.4 Rm, takes about 6 minutes - could have walked it quite easily. The bus stop is conveniently located immediately at the front door of a guest house, The Banana New Guest House. They have a room, with a fan for 18 RM, £3.71 per night. It's adequate, short on floor space, but clean and shower facilities just along the corridor. Good enough for the short time here, and it's well located so, it's a deal!

KOMTAR PARKSON

Food, water and orientation, in that order! Food, spoilt for choice here, everything Chinese, Indian and Middle Eastern. I settle on a Chicken Korma from a Southern Indian inspired cafe. Exquisite, not too spicy and only 94p. Good value here, with lots of other choices all of Indian origin of course, no western gunk insight! Next a quick orientation exercise with the help of a free tourist map. 10 minutes further along from the cafe it's the waterfront. Some sizable hotels are prominent around here, but there is a driveway with public access to the sea wall. Looking across, it's quite hazy, but there are islands to the South and Penang coastline to the North. A few locals fishing but not catching anything that I can see anyway. North a bit, then left towards KOMTAR, a Penang landmark that can be seen for miles around - a 36 storey tower central to giant shopping mall and bus station. Surprisingly, I haven't seen an ATM yet, or a bank even. 20 minutes of street pounding, still no ATM, but I don't need it today so not to worry too much, yet! KOMTAR suddenly appears, a gigantic complex, with about 3 different malls and all the trappings that go with them, including ATMs. A quick nose around and there are some bargains, but nothing like Bangkok, more exploration on this later might reveal a different story, but for now it's an orientation exercise that's going badly wrong! Why, because the KOMTAR place is so big, leaving via another exit is enough to disorientate any newbie in town, with a less than adequate map. Getting back to base, in the dark in a strange town - easier said than done!

At last, something I recognise from earlier. The 7 eleven store on Chulia street, good. New Banana  has wifi, so for an hour it's a catch up on 24 hours of missed messages. About 2 real messages and 10 of these stupid game requests that keep getting sent to me. 11 pm, could do with a snack. The Indian place is still open, 20p for a plate of rice and a mildly spiced sauce. Back to base, shower and bed. Tomorrow could be a beach day.

Rocking, rolling, riding Malaysia 27 March 2012 pt2

Occasional hills

Morning has broken...

Another song in there somewhere, I'm sure of it! But, yes, morning has indeed broken after a somewhat restless night. The train made frequent stops which of course woke everyone up - didn't seem like anyone was getting on or off though, so perhaps some dubious transactions as I kept at least 1 eye on my bags. I was able to chain by main backpack to a fixing attached to the train floor, so my only real concern was the secondary pack with my IPad inside. I knew from research that the restaurant car will decouple sometime soon, so it's off to get some breakfast. Pork in a rice soup, 2 slices of fresh pineapple, an orange juice and 2 cups of coffee for 100 baht, about £2.20. Wasn't the best meal of recent times, slightly better than the savoury porridge of a couple of weeks ago though. Other options were processed meats with fried eggs, or ham and cheese sandwiches, toast, fruits and hot drink for 120 baht.

Outside, overcast and misty with distant shadows protruding into the gloom. Not mountains, not even hills but giant rocks dotting the otherwise flat, sometimes marshy landscape. 7.30 and the attendants are busy re-assembling the carriage, back normality then apart from those still sleeping of course.

Old trains

8.30 the train pulls into Hat Yai Station and the exodus begins. Tourists get off here for onward travel to the various islands famed for their nice beaches, blue waters and alcoholic filled nightlife. All that comes at a price though - environmentally and monetarily, a debate for another time, or google the issue if you can't wait. About 15 minutes here as the carriages are pulled apart and hooked up again. The restaurant carriage has gone, so have the five carriages behind it. Just a handful of us left in 2 carriages for the onward journey Butterworth.

Onto Pedang Besar, the next significant stop as this is the border control point leaving Thailand and at the same time arrive on Malaysian soil.  About an hour from Hat Yai, passing close to some of those scattered rock formations and the train slows and abruptly stops. Officials board and sternly order everyone off, bags, everything has to leave the train. About 15 of us shuffle, dragging our bags along the corridor to the Thai immigration counters. A sign points up some steps to food and drink which sounds good right now, and a chance to stock up depleted supplies. But no, officials usher everyone along.  It takes 90 minutes to get in, just 5 minutes to get out, after another photo session, a quick tap on their computer and a stamp in the passport. Back along the same corridor to the Malay counters, less than 2 minutes for a passport stamp and off to the customs counter. Another couple of questions and they let me in, sparing me the hassle of pulling apart my backpacks, all easy, quick and simple. Signs frequently warning of harsh penalties for drug smuggling - its the death sentence! Back on the train, waiting, waiting and waiting. 10.30 and the train pulls out of Pedang Besar. Could have stocked up on food and water, but thinking about it now, didn't notice anywhere to change money -  I'll be better prepared next time. The scenery changes to thick vegetation in places and cleared land in others. A new railway is being constructed next to this one. I noticed that it started as the train left Hat Yai. Next stop then is Butterworth.

Rocking, rolling, riding.. Malaysia 27 March 2012

Bangkok Station

Rocking, rolling, riding...Into Malaysia Part 1

Could there be a song in here somewhere? Riding the bus to Bangkok station, a last minute change of plan. The initial idea to get the express boat to the marine pier then hike it to the station went awry for 2 reasons. First, hiking around with 2 backpacks in 35 deg c is hard work and secondly, the boats are always packed and there might have been problems with me taking the space of about 3 people! Since the boat pier and bus stand are side by side, just beside the Grand Palace, then the diversion was no big deal. Bus 53 or 25 stops near the train station according to the tourist office, simple enough, it's not all that far away. The 25 is ready to go, 6.50 baht and plenty of room. 35 minutes to travel the couple of miles, stop, start all the way, but I had considered a longer time than that and timed things accordingly - 2 hours before the train go's, time enough to stock up on food and drink. Plenty of food and beverage options as I navigate my way around the station hall and at good prices - 80 baht. Just under a couple of pounds for bottled water, 2 pastries, a coffee and a fried chicken noodle takeaway, cooked to order!

Very Comfortable

Rolling out of Bangkok Station 2 minutes late at 2.47! Train looks quite smart. On the outside, clean, good paintwork and inside, equally smart. Bright, airy, with air-con and clean-ish, all good for a long international journey, 22 hours according to the Schedule. Slow going as the train creeps north, before heading south and away from the urban sprawl of Bangkok city into a sparsely populated rural scene - rice paddies, cranes, herons and egrets by the hundreds. Each carriage is  split into 8 sections with 4 passengers to each section. Lots of room, enough to semi-stretch out for the first 4-5 hours before the bunks are prepared around 9ish according to the ' seat61' website.

Mostly Asians heading south, although the attendant remarked that I was the only one going to Butterworth, hard to believe, I mean a whole train to myself in Malaysia, ok, we'll see. A few Western tourists way to the rear of the train, perhaps it splits and they go elsewhere. It's dark by 6.45 so nothing to do but go and grab a coffee from the restaurant car, 30 baht, about 70p! and wait for the attendant to prepare the sleeping quarters. They do offer food, set meals only according to the menu distributed by the attendants. Cheapest is 160 baht for a set main meal consisting of jasmine rice, fried chicken with cashew nuts, soup or spicy soup, roasted duck in red curry and fruits. Most expensive is 400 baht for a seafood meal, enough for two apparently, drinks included! Not bad prices for a westerner but quite steep for the average Thai I would think, judging by the lack of ordered meals in this carriage.

Bunk 

7.30 and the bunks are prepared. Top bunk is pulled from the wall whilst the bottom bunk is constructed out of the 2 day seats underneath. Fresh bedding is applied, curtains hooked up and it's an early night for some, the gentle rocking motion making a few passengers sleepy! Probably a good idea to load the iPod with a good selection of audio. I downloaded a bunch of these shows beforehand, highly reccomended. Several crime thrillers and ghost stories later it's time to get some sleep - screaming kids, the snoring old timers opposite, good job I bought some fresh ear plugs!

And That Was 4 Weeks in Bangkok March 2012

Bangkok can be as cheap or as expensive as taste dictates, but superficial details can not hide the fact that this place is a 'refreshing change in attitudes'... March 2012.

Next... 4 Weeks exploring Malaysia and Malay Borneo.

Aspects of Bangkok March 25th 2012

Aspects of Bangkok, not always nice!

Best Taxi in town...

Shopping Mall

Church, Roman Catholic possibly..

Riverside communities

Riverside community

This house has seen better days..

Khao San Road..

Silom..

Hand made...For Sale 2-300 bt

Sky Train..

Dirty Canal..

Horse Guards of Bangkok

Sleeping Rough in Bangkok..

Inspection..

Alleyways...

Floods Exhibition Bangkok March 2012

An exhibition of all places, in the railway station. Photos and objects related to the Bangkok flooding late 2011. Another aspect of life in Bangkok..albeit a bit on the soggy side. Some distressing scenes..

Wheelie Bin...was!

Le Cabaret Bangkok 23rd March 2012

Le Cabaret at MBK..

Didn't really do the Siam and  MBK experience justice the other day, so back there today for a more comprehensive exploration. Bus 25 or 15, both heading towards the National Stadium where the MBK centre and those other high end shopping malls are located. Bus 15 rolls by, 6.50 baht for the relatively short journey, although hardy trekkers could hike the route in about 1 1/2 - 2 hours.

Bus stops directly opposite the National Stadium, just prior to the Sky Train station, which also serves as an overpass of the 6 lanes of highway, as well as walkways into the various malls. First significant building, is the Bangkok Art and Culture Museum. The only interest for me here is that Google have parked 2 of their Street View cars at the entrance, interesting that his should be considered artistic and cultural! A photo from the elevated walkway is enough, since arts and cultural sounds rather boring and I don't really have the time anyway. Next door is 'Siam Discovery' - a discovery of more shops by the looks of things. Yep, 7 floors of designer shops, posh eating and a display of wax dummies. Madame Tussuad's, famed for having wax models of famous people displayed, are here, close to the top floor with excited Korean tourists queueing for their opportunity to flirt with the stars. Next floor up, the very top infact, is an ice rink, busy with locals skating through puddles of water. Seems like keeping it all frozen is a struggle, 8 floors up! An interesting look around, and if their is an inclination to splurge, then eating in a top floor restaurant will be a memorable experience on 2 accounts, the amazing city view, and the price!

The next 2 along, Siam Centre and Siam Paragon. Looked over these places the other day, nice for an hour to satisfy a curiosity, but when the realisation that these places are really for the rich and super rich kicks in, it all then becomes quite a tedious affair.

Over the road to MBK via the elevated walkways. A stage is set just in front of the Tokyu entrance, chairs laid out in neat rows, on the the pavements between the MBK building and the Sky Train station, must be something going on later. MBK is where the masses, locals and tourists go to shop. It's lively, has all the trappings of a modern day mall - McDonald's, Starbucks, etc. This is where to find those designer label bargains, Reebok trainers for example, £21. No super bargains here though, no smart party shirts for £1.50 or anything like it. Posters around about the impending show outside, the only English wording being the starting time, and Cabaret (OK, I Know that's French) 18.00. Could be interesting. So, with an hour to kill, it's off to Starbucks, for what turns out to be rather substandard Americano coffee for £1.45.

Quarter to 6 and people are gathering outside. Might aswell grab a seat, seems to be a free show. People come and go, stage hands making adjustments. A VIP area is cordoned off, and we're told to move back a few rows. More running around, sound checks, quite clearly not ready for a 6 o'clock show. It's going to be a show with ladyboy participation since I can see quite a gathering of them, milling around in flamboyant dresses, head gear and of course feathers. Quite a crowd now, waiting for proceedings to begin - a few tourists, but mostly locals and a few bemused kids on the fringes.

Le Cabaret

6.30 and the show gets underway with a cancan routine. Interesting is one way of putting it, they must be getting paid well for this! Next is an all glitz and glamour affair with an Alcazar show, as they call it. Miming to well known pop tunes with an energetic dance routine to match. Intermissions with speeches and presentations, all in Thai so not a great deal of interest to the tourists, numbers of which have dwindled significantly looking around the rather large gathering of bystanders. Another routine from the Alcazar troupe, then it's a kind of talent show, with individual performances, X-factor ladyboy style. The initial opening, and 1st hour was quite good, uplifting, spirited displays, but now it's boring. I wouldn't say there is any particularly good talent in a visual sense and the lip syncing is terrible. so after number 2, that's it for me. Off to find a bus back to base.

The bus stand is right by the Stadium, which incidentally has a Thai boxing tournament In progress. This is obviously the place to be on a Friday night in Bangkok, for sports fans anyway. Bus 47 stops at KS road according to another tourist, and yes it does and since traffic is quite light for a change, the journey is only about 20 minutes, and free. The bus stops on the main boulevard, about 200 yards past the Democracy monument. Apparently, bus journeys after 7pm are free of charge. And that would explain why they are packed to the rafters every time!

Rambuttri Street 3 Bangkok 22nd March

Bank and ATMs

On the corner with the intersection. 10 b/.min landline 

Bus stop just before Rambuttri st intersection