Friday, 28 February 2014

A Wild Goose Chase, Bima, Indonesia, February 27th 2014


Wild goose chase, no guesthouse...

Well, it's been a while tramping around the streets of Bima in search of something that even remotely resembles a guesthouse. Quite clearly this chap hasn't much of a clue, but his English is near perfect so if nothing else he's able to make enquiries more successfully than me - English is definitely not widely spoken around here.

In concluding there are no guesthouses with striking distance of downtown I insist on heading back towards town and calling an end to this wild goose chase. A hotel it has to be as we grab a ride with one of those horse and carts that frequent the place. 10 minutes and 50p later we arrive outside a hotel Lila Graha on Jalan Lombok right in downtown I would say.  Just under £10 per night for a double bed in a reasonably good sized room. Air con, TV, wifi and breakfast included. Better pay this chap something for his trouble, which actually for once proved quite useful, if only to discover there are no Guesthouses in Bima, but I'm sure someone will now prove me wrong!

A couple of nights here then before onwards by bus and ferry to Labuan Bajo, the next main landmass heading towards the east. Time for a stomp around this place and make some observations. First noteworthy aspect is that this town is uninspiring architecturally. Rough around the edges with piles of rubble here and there. Next, there appear to be only 3 hotels and definitely no guesthouses or lodges. Perhaps the most striking feature about his town is it's people - without exception, everyone is extremely friendly, perhaps over friendly at times. Wandering down little lanes is attracting plenty of attention from locals as they gather round demanding photos, all smiling, laughing and the girls withdraw giggling. This Is definitely the way to see Indonesians in the raw without that pretentious drive of tourism.

Bima is not a tourist town, well, I haven't seen a single white tourist in the few hours I've been here. There maybe a few Indonesian tourists but like me probably stopping over before onwards to Labuan Bajo. No beaches here with the town situated on a rather long estuary into which flows all the stale water looking at some of the rivers flowing around here. But in general the town is tidy with some garbage here and there, quite isolated incidents of fly tipping I would think. Plenty of street food of dubious origins I might add, definitely a case for avoiding Delhi belly here. There is at least one cafe here, with food stacked up in the window. Good Indonesian food as I tuck into a good plate of rice, flat potato cakes and various other bits and pieces for 70p including coffee.



Thursday, 27 February 2014

Bima, West Nusa Tenggra, Indonesia, February 27th 2014


Pied piper of Bima...

It's a picturesque scene as the plane, an ATR72, flies along the estuary. Forested green hills and mountains either side and fields of rice bordering the waters edge. Very scenic indeed and good photos too since the sun is in a favourable direction.

A very small regional airport with room for about 3 planes. It's the kind of place that might see just 2 or 3 flights in a day. Security doesn't seem to mind that passengers are mindlessly wandering around taking photos, posing with family beside the plane, and equally the baggage handlers don't seem that interested in handling bags. Eventually though bags arrive much to the relief of passengers and the waiting taxi drivers, their noses hard pressed against the glass barriers. Suddenly a man breaks through the glass doors, makes a grab for me muttering two hundred thousand before being given a hefty whack by security. On this occasion for safety's sake, the principles of budget travel are put to one side and I purchase an expensive taxi coupon from inside the arrivals hall before being escorted to the waiting vehicle. Unfortunately no bus information around here and asking will just yield false information - typically no bus for several hours as I found out earlier.

Good roads connecting the airport to Bima, the journey, about 15 minutes as we approach the outskirts. Not much in the way of traffic around here as we roll into the central area. I am dropped at a hotel, quite a pricy option according to adds displayed in the Airport. So, it's a hike around to find a guesthouse.

A local sidles up asking if I need help. I explain while he looks confused at words like guesthouse, small place to stay, but eventually we get there and away he leads, into an alleyway, down a small road and another alleyway. Clearly a  residential part of town and to have a white tourist tramping around is creating quite some interest, particularly among local kids - it's like being the pied piper at times!

Leaving Lombok, February 27th 2014

Indonesian time keeping isn't great....

All along the beach road are boards advertising transport to just about anywhere in Indonesia and thankfully, the airport. Described as a shuttle bus leaving at 9.30, what actually rolls up at 9.35 is a people carrier. £3 for the 25 minutes ride only slowing when the occasional horse and cart blocks progress! Further slowing ahead as a market has spilled into the highway with chaotic scenes as more horse and carts vie for space with modern day transports.

A small airport with hundreds of people milling around here. Passengers waiting for taxis and buses which is clearly in short supply. More locals lining a walkway to the left selling anything from toys to pot noodles and at the end of this walkway, yes, another market of sorts. A couple of local food stands, fruit and again pot noodles. A handy place to grab a bite to eat for those wanting to avoid those high airport prices further embracing the principles of budget travel!

So far Indonesian time keeping has been 'lousy' and today is no exception as we are led towards the plane for this Garuda airlines flight to Bima. Perhaps a small justification for today's delay since we all have to queue for our umbrella. Yes, it's raining quite steadily now and no one go's until handed a brolly - trouble is half of them don't work!

The small propeller driven planes finally leaves Lombok behind setting course eastward for the 55 minutes to Bima. £24 for his flight, booked a few days ago and   compared to an equivalent European sector represents a bargain, particularly since Garuda is the National airline and not a low cost carrier. Just enough time to be handed a snack box containing I guess standard Indonesian food - a kind of sweet and savoury bread bun, a sticky rice and coconut mixture delicately wrapped in a banana leaf, an experience to behold I must say.

Wednesday, 26 February 2014

A tale of Wifi Woe, Kuta Lombok, February 26th 2014


Why no photos?

After initially working fine, the wifi here at Mandalikas has decided to cease all contact with my laptop but remains fine with the IPad  for reasons not obviously clear. Therefore photos on the blog in relation to Kuta Lombok are somewhat lacking so once again I shall have to wait until fast internet crosses my path in the future. I don't hold out much hope though since Indonesia becomes less developed the further towards Australia one travels.

I did try using a local Internet cafe at 30,000 rp an hour, but nothing actually worked properly there either. First everything was in Indonesian, then vital letters on the keyboard were missing and above all my external hard drive containing those photos failed to connect, so all in all a typical Asian internet experience!

There are however a few pages of bulk uploads, unedited and without dialog as I took the opportunity of fast internet in Johor Bahru. Please feel free to trawl through the February listings on the blog and if you have any questions please don't hesitate to leave a comment.

Your continued support is appreciated, thank you.

Quaint Chinatown, Singapore, February 13th 2014


China town in the shadows of skyscrapers....

Getting off the MRT at Chinatown then, just about 20 minutes from Newton. Whether it's an authentic preservation effort or just a tourist setup, it's an excuse to spend a couple of hours in Singapore this afternoon. Another new station, gleaming walls, floors and handrails - not a single piece of garbage to be spotted. Exit is onto a covered street lined both sides with tourist tack. Yes, all those souvineer tee-shirts in abundance along with various other made in China paraphernalia - at least the Chinese tourists get to see where their fellow countryman's efforts end up!

Look behind and above all the tack and visitors will see a variety of old style shop houses although it's hard to tell if these are authentic or replicas. A Chinatown heritage centre occupies one of theses buildings and for a fee, about £5, tourists can discover fascinating facts and exciting history! Maybe later but right now let's go and see if this is just a one street wonder!

No, not a one street wonder but a whole area preserved below those towering skyscrapers. A nice 20 minutes of pounding the quaint little streets of Singapore's Chinatown. It's quite easy to blot out the parked cars and replace them with rickshaws. Plenty of colour around here being Chinese New Year with buntings crisscrossing above, somewhat annoyingly since a good photo is tricky. But occasionally there is the opportunity to obtain that one special shot that encompasses all that is Chinatown today - colourful shophouses, authenticity unquestioned and still housing businesses such as herbal a medicine hall, some kind of massage parlour and various other regular type goings on!

We'll this looks to be the last street of Chinatown and a plaque here says it was the original quayside for traders before land reclamation began sometime early 1900s or even before that. On that reclaimed land now stands a plethora of skyscrapers belonging to financial institutions - those that controversially gamble with other peoples money. And it's easy to here conversations of bets, spreading the risk etc, as I sit and sip a coffee inside the German banks megastructure. Yes, unashamedly, a gentleman talks loudly on his phone discussing an investment of millions spanning 3 years! Oh we'll, enough of this, time to head on back into Johor and back to reality. Quite an enjoyable afternoon once the tourist tack is dispensed with - a visit to Chinatown is thoroughly recommended if only just for some peace and quiet. Very little traffic around, quite sleepy actually with just the occasional tourist - marvellous.

Finally, Kuta Lombok, February 26th 2014

No nightclubs, no Macdonald's and no KFC, marvellous!

And that's pretty much it from Kuta Lombok - 1 day to check out the beach, another to wander around the village then do it all again over the next 4 days. Yep, for those of us not into surfing there really isn't a great deal to do. Pricy bus trips are available to the North or hire a moped and see more countryside, but really Kuta is all about relaxing and doing it on a clean beach. It's easy to escape the clutches of those Western derived eateries after bit of a scout around mind you, but local food is there to be enjoyed! Oh and a quick mention of DJ's coffee corner, just up from the beach - just 17,000 rp for a really nice coffee Americano and just 10,000 rp for 3 coconut pancakes, Kuta Lomboks answer to Starbucks at a fraction of the price! No Macdonald's or KFC here yet either, all the more reason to come and enjoy some authenticity.

And while enjoying that local food, little kids will queue up to offer coloured bits of string they call a bracelet - going rate seems to be 50p a pop. And if coloured string doesn't appeal then soon someone will be offering DVD's or nicely woven cloth at a cheap price.

So for those Europeans and Americans coming here expecting night clubs and banging tunes until 4am then don't come because it's all over by 1130pm. Yes, the place closes down so you'll have to grab your Bintang bottles and booze on the beach or in your lodges.

So, a week here is more than enough to take a look at Bali as it used to be, but big development is coming, no doubt about it, but when is open to debate. So, for a quint essential relaxing time whilst mingling with real Indonesian folk then do come to Kuta Lombok, but come now before it's too late!


Sent from my iPad

The Green Lizard, Kuta Lombok, February 22nd 2014


Green Lizard and good grub at last

Almost 7 weeks since leaving England and so far so good, sticking to the principle of limited meat consumption - Nepal no, Malaysia/Singapore fine, Indonesia definitely not. The other principle - no ice, not even 1 cube from anywhere outside the UK and so far it's all working out fine. No signs of Delhi belly, not even excessive gas, just normal levels! So, let's hope today's lunch provides good uninterrupted nourishment.

Continuing with left at the village crossroads in a northerly direction, back towards the airport I would think. The place is much less populated here with just the odd bamboo hut hidden behind those banana trees although having one of those coconuts drop on the roof could prove nasty! Some cultivation going on, chickens running around and of course free range kids all over the place. A road side stall selling barbecued squid and other fish. Smells nice but preparation leaves a lot to be desired as mumma scrapes and cuts out the guts on a block at the roadside with dust and flies adding to the contamination. A quick photo here as some smile while others frown.

Right at the top of this road is a 4 lane highway, the village bypass and looks quite newly constructed almost defining the northern boundary of future development. Interesting to note a few guesthouses up here some distance from the beach but at least if development does kick off then up here should be quiet, and it's still quite a picturesque area filled with palms, bananas and rice, oh and the odd buffalo.

Hiking back down towards the village and past the local school which clearly has seen better days with desks in poor condition and rooms somewhat austere and rather depressing. In contrast, almost opposite sits a mosque, recently constructed looking at how clean and bright the place is with their ornately decorated gate - locked. And what's this clinging to that tree, bright green with shiny black eyes. A lizard seemingly unaffected by my attention as the camera gets to work - sometimes these lizards cooperate but often they don't so it's bit of a rush job in case this one has a sudden change of hart!  2 nice lizards in one day - marvellous. Back to the guesthouse for a well deserved rest.

Back towards the village crossroads tonight because that looks like the best spot for good and cheap local grub. Actually scrap that idea since I've spotted one of those cafes with food stacked up in the window - a kind of Indonesian canteen, and prices are good too - 75-80p for a plate of local chow, Nasi etc. No chicken is keeping the price down considerably!





Sent from my iPad

Embracing Principles, Kuta Lombok, February 22nd 2014

Bamboo and palm thatch, horse and cart, it's quaint...

Overnight rain has cooled the air significantly this morning. The cockerels are out in force again as the world stirs into life with those surfer dudes getting ready for another day of riding the huge waves. Just like Bali next door, Lombok also has big waves leading to an industry wholly centered around surf boarders. But here in Kuta Lombok quite where they go is a mystery since the place is pretty empty by mid morning - after hangovers of course.

Contemplating the days activities over banana pancake and coffee then. Well, for a start I'd better finish of exploring the bay. Then probably hike a little inland before the heat gets too much. Across the road then to the beach tramping in-between a plot of land that once was home to a construction of some sorts now just rubble - prime land for future development I should think. These plots strech the whole length of the coastline, Ideal for plonking those high rise hotels right beside the sea, shame when that happens. Turning right towards the fishing boats and what looks like the original part of this village as the road becomes little more than a rough track with mopeds wizzing by.

Plenty of bamboo structures around here, plenty of garbage also and there is a horse drawn cart getting loaded with vegetables. The place is obviously poorly developed with kids running around in rags and groups of people just hanging around under shelters. Leaving the village centre towards the hill that defines this bay and the land becomes pretty marshy, passing herds of buffalo grazing in the hot sunshine. To proceed further looks like a hike in the hills here will be necessary, but not today, far to hot for any strenuous exercise. Oh, some rustling in the leaves, it's a lizard, a little fat brown creature with a streak of orange along its body - that's a nice photo.

Back towards the village in search of something to eat and in embracing the principles of budget travel I've just got to find local food at local prices, or as close as I can get within striking distance of the guesthouse. No such luck yet as I move into the touristy part of the village. Yep, it's still those overpriced Western orientated joints - although actually still not bad value, particularly for Northern Europeans and their Antipodean cousins.

Turning left at the crossroads because I've spotted what looks like a strong contender for my  local food principle. Yes, indeed it is, a warung or Indonesian food outlet serving, well, a somewhat limited choice but the price is fair and a few others seem to be braving the rice and fried chicken fayre on offer, so let's go and grab some food - not the chicken though, not after how I've seen the method of preparation!






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Millionaire again, Kuta Lombok, February 21st 2014

A big fat wallet....and no Tesco's

Back to the main village in search of an ATM for the withdrawal of another million Rupiah - so the term 'Millionaire' is Without any real meaning here in Indonesia since there are so many. It's hot like never before around here despite that sea breeze, and a good nap under the fan is a welcome prospect as soon as I can finish up here at this ATM. It actually works, a bonus as thoughts of a long ride upto the nearest town disappear.

Very little traffic in terms of cars, but plenty of mopeds to dodge - actually not a horrendous amount of those either in this relatively sleepy village that is slowly being overtaken by tourists. Observations thus far then suggests that Kuta Lombok is benefitting from the Bali effect - an overdeveloped metropolis filled with Aussie lager louts. A similar rapid expansion here is a long way off i would think but there is evidence of small scale local developments underway. Put another way, when Tesco's  move in it maybe time to ship out! Tesco's  (and other supermarkets) of course defining the boundaries of urban life in Britain.

For now then let's just enjoy the lazy laid back appeal of Kuta Lombok with those bamboo and palm thatched huts set among coconut and banana groves. Having said all that, a little more development might help to force down the price of what is blatantly overpriced food! 20,000 and up for a plate of fried rice with an egg on top is enough to give anyone a dizzy spell!




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Westernisation, Kuta Beach, Lombok, Indonesia, February 21st 2014

Dizzy spells at Novotel...

A couple of monkeys there, high on that hillside which is good news - gives me a head start on an escape route should things turn nasty! Although it's nice to see wild monkeys, that novelty has definitely diminished following a spell of aggression in recent times.

On the other side of this hill and heading back towards the sea as this coastal exploration continues. Thus far there hasn't been any sign of those booze and food shacks normally found on Asian beaches, not even a sunbed, just plenty of garbaged waste ground and open grazing land.  Clearly this is a place where mass tourism has yet to discover and therein lies the charm of this undeveloped Indonesian village situated right beside the sea. Funny I should mention shacks and sunbeds, right on that ridge in the distance, yes, it's a shack, and a few sunbeds which actually I'm glad to see since a good rest and a cool drink will be most welcome.

An organised development here on this part of the beach. A couple of bars, restaurant and of course sunbeds. A quick scan of the menu here is enough to cause a nose bleed and a dizzy spell! A small bottle of water is £1 around 5 times the local price and food generally around 3 to 4 times more expensive - now that's what I call profiteering! And the Westerners look happy and content enough to pay the premium price as lunch orders are brisk. A high price for their spot in the sun though.  A couple of hours here to recover over a nice coffee, about £1.50 and not an unreasonable splurge for a shady spot with a good sea view. An upmarket Novotel resort and the only one I've seen along the coastline at quite a hike from the village - they obviously have the monopoly on sun beds, for now anyway.

Refreshed and a little peckish, time to wander inland in search of some local cuisine. Through some marshland, and plenty of lakes well stocked with goldfish, the type  Brits will pay good money for. lush greenery in abundance around here, plenty of rice fields, banana trees and palms. A small food stop just by the resort drive way, they only one I can see actually for quite a distance. I need to wake someone up looks like. Very sleepy little place, even the guard dogs can't be bothered! Eventually I get rice and some vegetables in curry. If I get sick, you'll know about it!

The Beach, Kuta Lombok, Indonesia, February 21st 2014

Kuta Lombok...Checking out the Beach.

Banana pancake and coffee is my request for breakfast which  actually is the only option available here, but it is included in the room price. Quite a nice place set in amongst tropical greenery with coconut trees in the garden, and peaceful with the a few birds twittering and the occasional cockerel crowing much to the annoyance of the hungover Aussies I suspect.

A wide beach stretching about a mile either side of the village forming a bay. Grainy yellow sand and broken corals and the sea about 3 shades of blue glistening as the hot sun rises, although there are a few dark clouds out there on the horizon. Dotted under the palms are bamboo structures to the left while to the right there is a whole load of those little wooden fishing boats with with a bamboo stabiliser on one side.

Left looks a little more scenic from here so let's take a hike and see how this Indonesian beach shapes up! Well, the beach and shoreline are clear of garbage and the sea looks to be free of contamination, so that's the good news, but the bad news - all the garbage is loitering just over the ridge and beyond the palms. It's a scramble over these boulders if I'm to proceed, which I probably should since it's not that much of an effort by the looks of things. Oh, a little secret beach, no garbage whatsoever so I guess not many visitors take that scramble. Hidden from view by those boulders its entirely possible get up to any kind of mischief here. Peaceful, cooling breeze with waves lapping gently onto the shoreline and a private little beach - the only thing missing is a palm tree.

Unfortunately, as I was savouring the delights of this secret little beach the tide has rolled in splashing on those boulders. A tricky few moments trying to keep grip on the slippery surfaces and staying dry, but a feat well executed if I do say so. The only way forward is inland, for now anyway. A dirt track leading the way at the base of a forested hill, one of several around here that makes up the lush green landscape.

Saturday, 22 February 2014

ALBUM - Flight to Lombok, Indonesia, February 2014

A short hop from Bali to Lombok on a flight booked the day before for 13 UK Pounds. Here are 6 views leaving Bali and 6 views arriving Lombok....













Bali, Indonesia, February 19th 2014

On Bali...

5.30am on the dark streets of Jakarta heading back to Gambir station where hopefully I can get a bus direct to the airport. The flight is at 10am, but catch the motorway jams it there may be no flight at all according to research so the early start was a piece of strategic planning and seems to be paying off. Busy, but no jams and the bus journey is only 40 minutes, oh and another£1.50.

At 37,000 feet with a cup of tea for £1 and on the way to Bali, should be there in 1 hour 15 minutes so just sit back and grab a nap for the next hour. Seat belt signs on as the plane begins to rock and slide around quite a bit as the sky suddenly turns into various shades of dark gray. It's a squally rain shower I think, looking ahead as the planes turns to avoid the worst of it.
But soon down in one piece with the wind and rain lashing against the aircraft window - oh we'll, might get a little wet leaving the plane!

Domestic arrivals is a quick process actually and soon out of the place. Now I need to find some diggs, just for 1 night since my connecting flight to Lombok isn't leaving until tomorrow afternoon. That gives me a little time to spend at the beach which happens to be by the runway and a guesthouse shouldn't be hard to find around here. So, a hike out of the airport and almost immediately into the Kuta town via a series of alleyways and the drizzle has ceased, good.

Actually not that many cheap options around, but then I am close to the beach I suppose. £10 will do, for 1 night and the place here is smart. Has aircon, Tv, wifi and a new coat of paint - yes, nice place. So, until the next flight tomorrow it's eat, beach, eat and bed, not necessarily in that order. Actually an expensive change of plan - its when the perspective of a place completly changes at night and Ijust could not remember where the guesthouse was, not until day light again...that story when I get back to the UK...

ALBUM - Jakarta, Indonesia, February 2014

Downtown Jakarta, easy to get to, a good couple of nights here while in transit...












Friday, 21 February 2014

ALBUM - Changi Airport, Singapore, February 17th 2014

Changi Aurport, Inside and Out....

A nice environment to spend a few hours. Even a butterfly garden here, a nice touch!











Jakarta, Indonesia, February 20th 2014

In a strange town at night....again.

Arriving in Jakarta as the sun falls below the horizon but still just enough light to see a view of  downtown as the plane is on short finals for landing. Skyscrapers and traffic, that's what it  looks like from here. Very quiet at the ' imigreson' counter and no trouble in them taking my $25 visa fee before immigration have a chance to examine my passport - I hope a refund is in order should I be refused entry! Actually it's all plain sailing with a couple of short and obvious questions mainly to ascertain my intended route of departure on visa expiration. They seem happy with my story, and here I am, once again on Indonesian soil, in the dark and with nowhere to stay.

First, an ATM to be found on the upstairs according to the info desk. Yes, plenty and at second attempt success, which is a vast improvement on last time. Now I need a bus to Gambir, that's in downtown and a short walk from Jalan Jaksa where one finds the local accommodations in plentiful supply, all this according to BelgianGuy on Thorntree Forum. Sure enough, once the taxi mafias have been delt with, there is a bus station right at the far left of terminal 2 with a counter issuing tickets to Gambir on the Damri bus, 30,000 rupiah, that's just £1.50, bargain as long as the bus dowsn't break down or worse, hijacked! No such issues as the modern, practically new bus purrs out from the station and joins the motorway and a traffic jam!

Gambir in about 1 hour 20, now I just have to find Jalan Jaksa which I know is within walking distance. Taxi, tuktuk and mojak mafias all quickly delt with and heading out of the station area. About 20 minutes to find this road  which thankfully is well known as the locals kindly give me accurate and truthful directions.

1st place is full up, 2nd is too expensive. Third time lucky then, right price but the room is only just passable. £5.33 which included breakfast, for a couple of nights here will suffice subject to noise and/or insects.

A quick stomp around  the block to find something to eat. Seems to be something of a tourist area with cafes offering  pricey food. plenty of street vendors with their Nasi Goreng in abundant supply. So a plate of egg fried rice it is and at just over a quid from the street vendor it's an expensive deal, oh well another fleecing.

Cross Border, Changi Airport, February 17th 2014

Goodbye Johor

Yes, it's time to bid farewell to Johor Bahru as the next step in this years adventures in travel is just a few hours away. It's fair to say I have a little soft spot for this place on the Southern most tip of Malaysia. The relaxed lifestyles and the proximity to Singapore makes this a good base for as much activity or even in-activity as one desires, with the cost of living a mere fraction of itd neighbour. But now time to move on, next stop Changi Airport as the bus rolls out of JB Kotoraya for the last time - Transtar TS1 crossborder and the price is only 7 Ringitt, about £1.80 direct to Changi terminal 3, after the Malaysian and Singaporean immigration controls and at 10.30am it's plain sailing.

Good news, Changi Airport have early check-ins for people like me who arrive in plenty of time. Lion Air 157 in on the board and on time at 1715, so with bag disposed of its time to eat lunch and drink tea on the viewing deck of terminal 1, the original Changi airport when I was last here in 1988.

Terminal 3 looks pretty new, maybe someone's been busy with the polish recently! It's quiet, not many passengers around this afternoon so immigration is quick and easy expecting some interrogation given all the recent stamps in my passport. But no, straight into the terminal which actually resembles a peaceful hotel lobby rather than a bustling international airport. A sign here points to free movies upstairs, sleeping chairs over there and a butterfly garden below, all very nice and thoughtful for those passengers with time on their hands - like me. The butterfly garden is actually well constructed and actually has plenty of butterflies fluttering to the top nets eager to escape. So, it's pretty easy to spend a few hours or even a day or two here and not get board - they even run free bus tours to downtown and back, although better hope there are no traffic jams!

Fast Forward to Indonesia

Dear Readers,

I am struggling to keep up with the blog as you might have noticed. I am about 2 weeks behind and so from here on its fast forward.... to Indonesia. I will return to fill in the gaps in due course.