ALBUM - Driving Downtown, Pokhara, Nepal, June 2014

Urban driving in Nepal - look out for the animals!

 

Downtown Driving, Pokhara, Nepal June 2014

Dear George, if you have nerves of steel then do it, otherwise forget it...

Want to drive in a Nepali downtown area? My advice, don't do it. Well, not unless you have nerves of steel and are in possession of something with a turbo boost - to get you out of trouble.

 After a few taxi rides in Kathmandu and several bus rides to downtown Pokhara Its pretty clear, the rules, if there are any, are not enforced too often. Reckless overtaking, no main culprits here, it's anyone with a powerful set of wheels (excluding pedal power of course). Equally reckless undertaking, especially by motorcyclists with little regard for pedestrians. There is huge regard however for the animals - and I don't mean the local kids! Cows and buffalo routinely taking up space on the roads around here. Goats have been spotted  roaming free range and even a camel regularly wanders up the city highway without any regard for humans whatsoever.  Yes, everything slows down for the animals, especially for that cow taking a break slap bang middle of the road.

 And negotiating the mini roundabouts is a particularly perilous feat where confusion reigns amongst all of those blowing horns. The whole process seems to be based on a system of pushing in, inching forward and taxi drivers are the main culprits in this practise hence it's not unusual to see a cab full of dents scratches, and bits hanging off! Cyclists inch into every nook and cranny regardless of that lorry or tourist bus ready to take that same space at any moment - a death-wish if I ever saw one!

Police are everywhere around here or so it seems. Loitering at strategic points along the roadsides they do little to enhance safety. They know how to use a whistle though and quite frequently too, but exactly why, well, that's anyone's guess since to the casual on-looker drivers do as they please regardless. But there is one good aspect to be celebrated - that camel will rest to one side of the road thus giving road users a clear run all the way to Lakeside.

So there you have it. Driving downtown can be a challenge and if you insist on this risky venture then all I can say is good luck and respect the animals! Slow down a bit and check both mirrors before swerving!

 Despite the apparent mayhem and madness, more applicable to Kathmandu than Pokhara, it all works. There isn't any gridlock, rush hour jams or school run chaos - none of it whatsoever. Never hear of accidents either, so perhaps there is something to be said for less rules and just letting life on the road work itself out. I mean, with all the rules and regulations in Britain, how many accidents are there on a daily basis?

No Postman Pat, Pokhara, Nepal, May 2014

Mahindrapool

No Posties around here....

What a palaver trying to find the local post office. miles upon miles of stomping the Pokhara streets only to find that the original location information is wildly out-of-date! its not like you can ask a postman because there just aren't any, well not that can be recognised as such anyway.

Two offices supposedly, one in downtown at Mahindrapool and the other somewhere between Lakeside and the tourist bus park. No sign of anything that's obviously the Post Office in Mahindrapool, better ask someone. The Policeman on the corner had no idea what a Post Office was and couldn't extend the conversation to anything more than a shrugging off but a more optimistic response from a shop keepers assistant. A giggle followed by some discussion with her college suggested the place was further along, but how far, well, they couldn't say. Optimism turns to frustration as still no sign of this Post Office. A shopkeeper points back down they way I've just come, "its next to the Nepal Telecom building", he says. Something prominent to look out for, a landmark of sorts and a place everyone should know.

The Telecoms building is pretty easy to find being the biggest grey concrete block of offices in Pokhara - with a tall radio mast being the major clue in identifying the place. A walk around the block and still no sign of this Post Office. Turns out there isn't one here in downtown, that's according to a telecoms staff member!

Next, the saga continues...

 

Driving Precariously, Nepal, April 2014

Driving, it's a precarious business...

For the casual Westerner an apparent lack of road rules and a terrible driving etiquette coupled with roads often unfit for purpose all conspire to make driving in some Asian countries a precarious business. Nepal is no exception to this, particularly Kathmandu! There, I wouldn't attempt to drive until I was well settled into the rhythm of that cities life - and finding insurance might be a challenge. Driving to Western standards around here will soon have your nerves in tatters as locals will Linley hound you off the road - just don't drive, plenty of public transport to get you pretty much anywhere.

So what exactly happens on the roads here in Nepal?

From personal experience and observations here's a rundown of Nepali driving etiquette.
Out of town driving is quite different from urban driving. Firstly the highways are much narrower being carved into mountainsides, plenty of hairpin corners to slow down proceedings - or so you'd think.  Well, yes they do slow down a little, but overtaking on corners seems to be routine around here. To be fair, most of the time its possible to see the entire stretch of highway looking across the ravines but not always and drivers do take risks. Overtaking on hills is pretty frequent on  the trip from Kathmandu to Pokhara. A calculated risk  since their isn't really a great deal of traffic in the opposite direction after about 11.30 am! Then there is the regular overtaking - the safe kind when the road is  a straight stretch approaching a town. It's when drivers try to make 3 lanes out of what is essentially a 1 1/2 lane highway by British standards, and most of the time it seems to work with most drivers willing to giveaway at the sound of a horn. All in all though, a first timer to Nepal on a bus trip probably shouldn't eat a hearty meal before travelling, shouldn't sit up at the front and should take some kind of container for possible contents of stomach! Oh, and ear plugs since the constant sound of the horn can grate after a few hours.

Well, in a nutshell that's a typical 6 hours on the bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara, a journey I have survived 3 times, and quite confident of surviving more trips like this. After all these drivers know their roads and calculate those risky overtakes pretty well. Alternatively, fly, but the planes are old the the Nepali air safety record isn't great.

It's No accident.... Next time I'll look at driving in town and how to avoid Camels, cows and buffalo

 

Lakeside Summer, Pokhara, Nepal, May 2014

Fewa Lake in Summer....

A tranquil summers afternoon beside the lake between Hallanchowk and Sarangkot.

 

Power, Pokhara, Nepal, May 2014

Electricity, rather the Lack of it.....

Living in Nepal can be a frustrating business for the casual Western visitor, especially a first timer from the UK where internet is fast and reliable most of the time, water and gas supply taken for granted and the supply of electricity guaranteed pretty much forever - in my lifetime anyway.

So let's take a look at the electricity situation here in Nepal. It's not constant nor is it consistent. Within one 24 hour period the powers at the helm of national operations decide when and for how long Nepalese are to be given an electrical supply - and it comes in 3 bursts. Typically, well actually there isn't a typical example because it is so random but there are 2 bursts during daytime and a long burst at night - 11pm to 5am or 10 pm to 6am if the authorities are in a generous mood. I have known the switch-on as late as 12 midnight. Day times can be mid morning to mid afternoon then again from 7pm to 9pm, but today, well there's been an almost continuous flow for the last 12 hours with the exception of a few 10 minute breaks.

 So why is it a problem?

Visitors loaded with gadgets may find that critical re-charge needed for their next Facebook session may have to wait and grabbing that cappuccino downtown won't be easy if the power supply is off.  Sleeping at night can be less than satisfying if there isn't the power to tuen the cooling fan or supply the air-conditioner units - yes, it can get pretty sweaty during the hot months. Seems not such a problem in cafés where milk and yogurt are in sealed packs, kept on ice in some establishments. However I won't eat the local ice-cream. That is not sealed and often shows signs of defrosting and re-freezing and dairy products on the whole should be consumed with some caution! The good news is that those larger establishments along the tourist strip in Pokhara and downtown Thamel in Kathmandu have backup generators, but of course the prices in their food and lodgings reflect their investment!

It's manageable for those independent travellers willing to adapt...

On the whole though those gaps in power supply are manageable - there will be some power overnight and it's just a case of remembering to leave those gadgets plugged in and on. And just before sleep, take a cold shower, as cold as you can withstand! Oh, better use a surge protector as of course, nothing is guaranteed around here! So for those travellers willing to adapt then then blending into the Nepali way of life becomes a breeze. Those on package guided tours - Chinese, Koreans and some Europeans then it's a whole different ball game of course.

Why....

According to Mr. P. At the Lumbini Kitchen it's mainly an issue of politics and involves India somewhere in the equation. It's not really my place to mention the C........n word but I would imagine the national power supply and the lack df it is a hot topic around election time!

And that's it. PGH signing off another random jotting from Nepal.

A Nepalese School Assembly, Pokhara, Nepal, May 2014

Stand to Attention.....

This is how these school children at L.A. Higher Secondary School begin their school day. Order and discipline are obviously high in this school's ethics - very different from a British school!

http://youtu.be/kOHTPZT_--w

Click here to watch the assembly taking place

 

A Trip to the Cinema, Nepali Style, May 2014

One bus, a bag of pop corn and a movie, and still change from £5....

A breakdown of the expense account for 2:

1. Bus to Downtown Pokhara 31p. 

The blue and white public buses are frequently leaving lakeside bus stand at Hallanchowk, about 1 every 5 minutes and always well used. Being at the start of the route a seat is pretty much guaranteed for the 10 or sometimes 15 minutes to the downtown terminus called Mahindrapool. And at 31p for the two of us, Myself and Amrit, I'm not complaining.

2. Movie Ticket £1.27 for two.

Litteraly it's a hole in the wall. No plush counters with movies listed above. No carpeted walkways either, just a narrow gap in the concertina gate and into a rather dingy hall containing 3 snack counters.  Perhaps reminiscent of British cinemas in the 1960's. 

3. Popcorn 25p.

Amrit is pestering for some popcorn, some 30 minutes before the movie! Ok, pester power wins this time - quite a reasonable amount for 25p, tastes pretty fresh. 

4. Bottle of water and coffee 31p.

Water for the 2 hour movie and coffee to either num the senses or help in sending me to sleep for half an hour! The prospect of sitting through a Nepali language movie most of the afternoon doesn't excite me a great deal. Oh and the coffee tastes foul. The Interior is dated. A few seats in a state of disrepair but there is the odd one that's good and reclines at a reasonable angle - quite comfortable actually when the fans get going. 

5. 2 coffees and a fairy cake 47p

Half time and Amrit pesters once again, this time he wants coffee and so do I as it happens. This time I monitor what they put into the small plastic cups. Nescafé, steamed milk, sugar - stop the sugar, no chocolate dust either. A much tastier coffee I have to say. 

6. Electronic fly zapper, made in China £1.78

In impulse buy, flies watch out. Yes, spotted in one of the many housewares shops on the way back to Mahindrapool bus stand for the ride to lakeside. This zapper packs quite a nasty punch to any winged insect or even finger I would think, that makes contact with the mesh! 

7. Bus back to Lakeside Hallanchowk 31p for 2.

20 minutes this time as the bus waits around near New Road for 5 minutes.

Total expense account from 2 - 6pm: £4.70 or ordinarily £2.92 without the fly zapper purchase. 

Oh and the movie....

Well, I didn't catch the name but it packed plenty of action and violence seemed to be mainstay. Put it this way, I didn't fall asleep. Also  word about the loo's around here - in short 'foul'. The stench is overpowering, another case of Nepali toilet heygiene neglect. So that was a visit to Pokhara's cinema, not exactly the multi-screen set-up Brits are used to but it serves a population with few expectations and playing catch-up with Western ideals.

Amrit, tickets from a hole in the wall

Amrit found a good seat!

 

 

Supermarket Sweep, Nepali Style, Pokhara, Nepal, May 2014

Shopping, 157 Nepalese Rupee is equal to £1 UK.

After dropping Amrit at school time for a little shop browsing. Bhat Baheni is Pokhara's answer to Marks and Spenser, a department store of 4 levels clearly aimed at the middle and higher classes of Nepali residents. To the casual European visitor prices in the food hall are, on the whole pretty good but on occasion there can be an item outrageously priced - such as Thai Green Apples!

Next time I'll take a look at the electrical department but today I just need some toothpaste, might get those Mango chunks - irresistible price!

here then is a snap shot on what the Nepali folk pay for their groceries...

Still plenty of independent traders

Ouch, expensive!

About 15p for this bag of ready cut Mango

Pricey imports

Plenty of Chinese chemical additives around

About 45p for your Mars-a-day

 

Mole Cricket, A Super Bug in Pokhara, Nepal May 2014

After extensive research and much deliberation this not so little bug turns out to be a 'Mole Cricket'.
Quite a rare sighting and an endangered spieces according to various internet sources. Here's more on what this creature gets upto: www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwu3CDmFg00

Settling in, Pokhara, Nepal, April 25th 2014

Settling in at Lakeside....

Where to stay? That is the most pressing question right now. The place is hardly thronging with tourists so a bed for the night shouldn't be hard to find at 6pm, all the same though I should get a move-on. Mr. P. offers to negotiate with Yeni's just across the street - 400 for a common room, 600 possibly for an en-suite and then that rises to 1000 Nepali Rupees. Eventually back to 600 for the en-suite which actually is very good value indeed, even by Nepali standards.

Yeni guesthouse, it's new, opened just a few weeks ago and no sign of a cockroach, ant, mouse or even a lizard, most unusual. No air-con but the ceiling fan is strong and it's still cool at night anyway, according to the forecast - 30 deg c by day and 20 by night. Bathroom fittings all new, clean and even the toilet shows little sign of any abuse! Yes, all things considered, quite a bargain at ￡3.82 including internet. Next door is the Laundry - 64p per kilo and opposite that is Mr. P's cafe with an average price of ￡2.30 covering breakfast and dinner!

Next, find somewhere to fix my cheap Primark jeans. Just yards further along is a taylors
and alterations - 64p to have the brass buttons replaced! Another bargain in the bag and I can collect tomorrow. And now for another bargain, food. Nepali Thali for dinner, a staggering 95p is the price.

Kelly, A Postcard from Nepal, Pokhara, May 2014

This is for Kelly C/O Sprowston Junior School, England.

Dear Kelly,
your postcard from Norwich was delivered to L.A. Secondary High School in Pokhara, Nepal on Wednesday. Unfortunately I don't have too much confidence in the Nepali post system so I am posting a response here.

Aparna Baral would like you to have here postcard...

This is Aparna,