Sunday Morning in Hanoi..
A cold, misty dawn with a light drizzle as the bus pulls to the side of a boulevard. The usual collection of taxi drivers surround the bus as bleary eyed tourists stumble off. Unfortunately, the bus hasn't stopped in the old quarter - that's the area of Hanoi which has the biggest concentration of hotels and guesthouses and is in all the guide books as the first port of call on arrival. At the ticket office in Hue, I had arranged my Hanoi accommodation for $11 per night at the Elizabeth hotel, and a taxi was waiting. Others getting off this bus are forced to take a taxi to the old quarter, since no hotels are evident around here. Obscure transactions between taxi and bus drivers could be a reason for this!
About 10 minutes and the taxi pulls up outside the hotel. I have to wait a while for the room to become vacant, a side effect of early morning arrivals. It's called the old quarter, and old it is. A chance to look around briefly reveals a rather shabby street scene - buildings that clearly could do with a lick of paint here and there. Perhaps further exploration will reveal a place with vibrancy and character, we'll see but for now, as always after a trip on the night bus, a period of recovery for the next few hours. But not before digging into the free breakfast, with coffee. Eggs, ham, rice, noodles, bread, jam and banana. No, I didn't eat all that, just a couple of fried eggs in a baguette.
Mid afternoon and it's time to take a look at What this place has to offer. The old quarter revolves around a lake and being a Sunday looks like the place locals come to hangout. Add In several hundred tourists and the place is a hive of activity. As in the rest of Vietnam offers of a motorbike ride to somewhere is continuous , on every street corner, intersection and bus stand. No rickshaws but instead there are cyclos, a bike with some kind of Seating arrangement ahead of the rider, these are also available on a continuous basis. People milling around, sitting beside the lake eating ice cream even though it's cold and damp. With a map, the streets are easy to navigate but actually using them can be challenging since they are also serve as platforms for shop extensions, informal dining and motorbike parking. Often little choice but to walk in the street amongst the traffic! Lots of little streets, big streets but not that many alleyways in Hanoi. Numerous cafes on most streets and I pick on the kangaroo cafe. They offer real Vietnamese coffee, in a mug with real milk for only 30,000 vnd, about £1. Makes a pleasant change from the usual thimble full for £1.60! I need to eat and order a round of spring rolls. 5 pieces arrive, quite Small about a mouthful I suppose - not such good value. Looking around and comparing prices on this short initial expedition, eating here looks to be more expensive than in Saigon generally and I would imagine portions to be just as small. I'll try it out and let you know! In the meantime the search is on to find some good, not overpriced eating. Back to base, I'm knackered!
Top tip on Hanoi accommodation. Its a good idea to check and double check the price - get someone to write it down, in US dollars if possible. Over charging, scams and dishonesty is rife between Saigon and Hanoi, visitors need to be one step ahead all the time wherever possible.
Tuesday, 14 February 2012
Monday, 13 February 2012
To Hanoi 11th February 2012
On the Night Bus Again..
A bus pulls out, another is waiting to go. I get on that one, then get off again, having just settled in - Over booked says the man, another bus soon. 3rd bus rolls up nearly full, but space at the back. Good and bad - good because space behind couches for bags, bottles, shoes, and its a bit more secure as well, bad because it means getting cosy with strangers! The bus is New, so new there is still that factory finish smell. Fresh, clean and bright, couple of TV screens showing some Chinese chat and entertainment show, not surprising since majority of passengers are Vietnamese, or Chinese, hard to tell. Bus is over booked again, and a stop further along sees more passengers hopping on. They are given mats stretched along the floor. Looks like a long night for them! A stop after just 2 hours and another feeding opportunity. Soon on the road again, thankfully there is a toilet on the bus since I don't think there will be anymore stops.
So far so good...Hanoi at 6 tomorrow morning then.
Top tip on using open tour buses at weekends. Confirm your seat as far in advance as you can. The 24 hour confirmation stipulation is just the minimum and is fine for travel weekdays. Weekend buses are fully booked way ahead of time. I was lucky, but others arriving at the office to confirm their travel on Sunday were out of luck.
A bus pulls out, another is waiting to go. I get on that one, then get off again, having just settled in - Over booked says the man, another bus soon. 3rd bus rolls up nearly full, but space at the back. Good and bad - good because space behind couches for bags, bottles, shoes, and its a bit more secure as well, bad because it means getting cosy with strangers! The bus is New, so new there is still that factory finish smell. Fresh, clean and bright, couple of TV screens showing some Chinese chat and entertainment show, not surprising since majority of passengers are Vietnamese, or Chinese, hard to tell. Bus is over booked again, and a stop further along sees more passengers hopping on. They are given mats stretched along the floor. Looks like a long night for them! A stop after just 2 hours and another feeding opportunity. Soon on the road again, thankfully there is a toilet on the bus since I don't think there will be anymore stops.
So far so good...Hanoi at 6 tomorrow morning then.
Top tip on using open tour buses at weekends. Confirm your seat as far in advance as you can. The 24 hour confirmation stipulation is just the minimum and is fine for travel weekdays. Weekend buses are fully booked way ahead of time. I was lucky, but others arriving at the office to confirm their travel on Sunday were out of luck.
Hue 11th February 2012
Along the Perfume River..
A host of tours are available from a full day visiting bunkers and tunnels associated with the American war, to a gentle ride along the river in a dragon boat for a few hours and for $7 I'm talked into it by the hotel desk, eager to make some commission. They call it the perfume river, I don't know why - doesn't smell of anything special.
Strangely, a minibus picks up at the hotel and drives to an office just around the corner, where there is a gathering of passengers for this trip. A mix of nationalities - Malay, Vietnamese, Canadian, British and Aussies. Tickets handed in, a head count and off we go precariously crossing the road to get to the boat station opposite and just a few yards along. A long line of boats, twin and single hulls, brightly painted and of course dragon heads fixed to each of the bows, somewhat lacking in authenticity. Looks like the last boat is ours. Imagine a square conservatory fixed on to two rather large canoes, that's the set up here. Plastic garden chairs are set out in rows, staff bring over green tea, as if's complimentary, actually is 10,000 vnd or 50 cents a few minutes later.
Getting going at last after some precarious manoeuvring between the other boats. It's a ride upstream, stopping off to look at various ancient religious architecture. The weather is grey, overcast with a mist on the horizon, but at least it's warm. An interesting view of river life as boats in various states of repair pass on by, carrying mud, bricks and various other goods. The banks are fertile with a mix of delicate leaf crops, herb patches being tendered to by workers in conical hats. The water is blue, quite clean and not at all murky, but doesn't smell of perfume! First stop is an old house that belonged to an important religious figurehead from ancient times. It's costs just over a dollar to look around here and get a few snaps. The guide rambles on with dates and names, we all pretend to look interested.
Clambering down the muddy bank to get back on the boat, and head off to the next ancient building. The mist clears a little and the scenery changes as the river meanders towards mountainous terrain making for some very photogenic scenes. The guide rambles on - 3 temples and a tomb are on the agenda ahead and wants to collect entrance fees now to save time later. I opt out since I've had more than enough of ancient temples, pagodas and tombs. It's about £1.75 to look around each site, but I'm really on the trip for the boat ride and to take in the scenery. Lunch is included according to the sales blurb. A menu is passed around with items that can be ordered at extra cost. Anything to drink is also extra. What actually is included is the rice, noodles and tofu, so it's rather a bland lunch for most of us.
The boat ride ends at 2pm and the trip continues on a bus, heading back to the city via more ancient architecture, but through some very scenic countryside. Whilst wandering around, a rustle in the grass. It's a snake, my second wild snake sighting, but before I can get my camera it slithers away. Sort of a dark green colour, with a reddish area behind the head, about 3/4 meter long.
Not a bad trip as it happens, better than I thought and some nice scenic photos. Not a place to stop for any length of time from what I can see, although there maybe a good reason lurking somewhere for someone. The weather is defiantly cooling off northbound. Not too cold in Hanoi I hope.
A host of tours are available from a full day visiting bunkers and tunnels associated with the American war, to a gentle ride along the river in a dragon boat for a few hours and for $7 I'm talked into it by the hotel desk, eager to make some commission. They call it the perfume river, I don't know why - doesn't smell of anything special.
Strangely, a minibus picks up at the hotel and drives to an office just around the corner, where there is a gathering of passengers for this trip. A mix of nationalities - Malay, Vietnamese, Canadian, British and Aussies. Tickets handed in, a head count and off we go precariously crossing the road to get to the boat station opposite and just a few yards along. A long line of boats, twin and single hulls, brightly painted and of course dragon heads fixed to each of the bows, somewhat lacking in authenticity. Looks like the last boat is ours. Imagine a square conservatory fixed on to two rather large canoes, that's the set up here. Plastic garden chairs are set out in rows, staff bring over green tea, as if's complimentary, actually is 10,000 vnd or 50 cents a few minutes later.
Getting going at last after some precarious manoeuvring between the other boats. It's a ride upstream, stopping off to look at various ancient religious architecture. The weather is grey, overcast with a mist on the horizon, but at least it's warm. An interesting view of river life as boats in various states of repair pass on by, carrying mud, bricks and various other goods. The banks are fertile with a mix of delicate leaf crops, herb patches being tendered to by workers in conical hats. The water is blue, quite clean and not at all murky, but doesn't smell of perfume! First stop is an old house that belonged to an important religious figurehead from ancient times. It's costs just over a dollar to look around here and get a few snaps. The guide rambles on with dates and names, we all pretend to look interested.
Clambering down the muddy bank to get back on the boat, and head off to the next ancient building. The mist clears a little and the scenery changes as the river meanders towards mountainous terrain making for some very photogenic scenes. The guide rambles on - 3 temples and a tomb are on the agenda ahead and wants to collect entrance fees now to save time later. I opt out since I've had more than enough of ancient temples, pagodas and tombs. It's about £1.75 to look around each site, but I'm really on the trip for the boat ride and to take in the scenery. Lunch is included according to the sales blurb. A menu is passed around with items that can be ordered at extra cost. Anything to drink is also extra. What actually is included is the rice, noodles and tofu, so it's rather a bland lunch for most of us.
The boat ride ends at 2pm and the trip continues on a bus, heading back to the city via more ancient architecture, but through some very scenic countryside. Whilst wandering around, a rustle in the grass. It's a snake, my second wild snake sighting, but before I can get my camera it slithers away. Sort of a dark green colour, with a reddish area behind the head, about 3/4 meter long.
Not a bad trip as it happens, better than I thought and some nice scenic photos. Not a place to stop for any length of time from what I can see, although there maybe a good reason lurking somewhere for someone. The weather is defiantly cooling off northbound. Not too cold in Hanoi I hope.
Sunday, 12 February 2012
Hue, February 10th 2012
Hue, just about three quarters of the way to Hanoi...
Doesn't look an inspiring place to stay and if it wasn't for the fact that Hoi an to Hanoi was a 15 hour ride then I wouldn't have stopped at Hue, pronounced Hwee. Bus pulls into a side street opposite another $10 room hotel. It's in reasonable condition and I'm not feeling tip top so don't want to pound the streets for the sake of a couple of dollars. As always an abundance of hotels and guest houses, cafes, restaurants and a host of informal dining. Lunch is a banana pancake and as usual in Vietnam's formal eateries the portion is small. Anyone with a healthy appetite is unlikely to be satisfied with a single order. A potion of Spaghetti bolognaise for example could be picked up in 1 hand and anything of Italian origin is usually up to 3 x more expensive, adding to the disappointment. I mean, I don't mind paying if the portion is fair. A 3 course meal generally is going to cost around £5-7.
Downside to busing around Vietnam with a bunch of Europeans is sooner or later a cold virus will claim another victim. Just a sniffel today, so I'm going to sleep it out. Tomorrow is a dragon boat ride on the perfume river, Hue.
Doesn't look an inspiring place to stay and if it wasn't for the fact that Hoi an to Hanoi was a 15 hour ride then I wouldn't have stopped at Hue, pronounced Hwee. Bus pulls into a side street opposite another $10 room hotel. It's in reasonable condition and I'm not feeling tip top so don't want to pound the streets for the sake of a couple of dollars. As always an abundance of hotels and guest houses, cafes, restaurants and a host of informal dining. Lunch is a banana pancake and as usual in Vietnam's formal eateries the portion is small. Anyone with a healthy appetite is unlikely to be satisfied with a single order. A potion of Spaghetti bolognaise for example could be picked up in 1 hand and anything of Italian origin is usually up to 3 x more expensive, adding to the disappointment. I mean, I don't mind paying if the portion is fair. A 3 course meal generally is going to cost around £5-7.
Downside to busing around Vietnam with a bunch of Europeans is sooner or later a cold virus will claim another victim. Just a sniffel today, so I'm going to sleep it out. Tomorrow is a dragon boat ride on the perfume river, Hue.
Thursday, 9 February 2012
Hoi An 10th february 2012
Bicycle ride in Hoi An...
The beach is a little to much hiking in my opinion, so I'm going to hire a push bike. The land around here is flat, the climate is cool, much cooler of late, ideal for a bike ride. Just under £1 gets a reasonable cycle, good tyres and with fairly good brakes, but no puncture repair kit! Surprisingly, food the the hotel is the cheapest I've seen in Vietnam , so it's the good old fruit salad and yogurt, with a coffee here before heading off beach bound and vying for road space.
Out of town towards the village of Cua Dai, a 4 kilometre ride according to the map. Between the town and the village is an expanse of farmland, rice fields mainly with figures and conical hats dotted in the far distance. About 30 minutes to the beach, typically palms, cafes and loungers on the sand. Not many people around, a handful of tourists and a few locals. The sea is rough here, waves breaking quite away out and again crashing onto the shore. Mountainous islands loom on the horizon, but shrouded in haze and mist. Beach is clean, no garbage anywhere and probably to breezy for the flies, haven't see any at all. A good spot to spend a couple of hours and not unreasonable prices either. Quite cold by 3pm so back on the bike and into the old town for another look around. Loads of tourists on bikes, queuing for boat rides and generally milling about.
Early night, early bus in the morning. Eating at a place for locals, couple of doors from the hotel. No signs indicating its a cafe, just that I noticed an open door and some Chinese cackling. Good noodle soup for 18,000 vnd. Hoi An is good for a couple of days stopover. A few tours are available basically a bike ride down some lanes or walking tours around the town centred on the Japanese bridge. Further afield there is marble mountain to look at.
The beach is a little to much hiking in my opinion, so I'm going to hire a push bike. The land around here is flat, the climate is cool, much cooler of late, ideal for a bike ride. Just under £1 gets a reasonable cycle, good tyres and with fairly good brakes, but no puncture repair kit! Surprisingly, food the the hotel is the cheapest I've seen in Vietnam , so it's the good old fruit salad and yogurt, with a coffee here before heading off beach bound and vying for road space.
Out of town towards the village of Cua Dai, a 4 kilometre ride according to the map. Between the town and the village is an expanse of farmland, rice fields mainly with figures and conical hats dotted in the far distance. About 30 minutes to the beach, typically palms, cafes and loungers on the sand. Not many people around, a handful of tourists and a few locals. The sea is rough here, waves breaking quite away out and again crashing onto the shore. Mountainous islands loom on the horizon, but shrouded in haze and mist. Beach is clean, no garbage anywhere and probably to breezy for the flies, haven't see any at all. A good spot to spend a couple of hours and not unreasonable prices either. Quite cold by 3pm so back on the bike and into the old town for another look around. Loads of tourists on bikes, queuing for boat rides and generally milling about.
Early night, early bus in the morning. Eating at a place for locals, couple of doors from the hotel. No signs indicating its a cafe, just that I noticed an open door and some Chinese cackling. Good noodle soup for 18,000 vnd. Hoi An is good for a couple of days stopover. A few tours are available basically a bike ride down some lanes or walking tours around the town centred on the Japanese bridge. Further afield there is marble mountain to look at.
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