Monday, 5 March 2012
Ladyboys of Bangkok March 4th 2012
The post I know several of my readers have been waiting for...
There are boys, lady's and then there are ladyboys. So far in the week here I have only seen 2, both in the Khao San area. One was attached to a French guy, the other serving in a cafe. I know there are more than 2, its probably just too hard to spot the difference sometimes. The third gender, is commonly accepted as part of Thai society without attracting any undue attention from what I have seen so far anyway. So, thats it..No earth shattering news to reveal on the subject - but it could all change, and what happens in Bangkok may not necessarily stay in Bangkok! Stay tuned.
Bangkok Snake Farm March 4 2012
No Snake..
I'm amazed to find that most of the food outlets at the university canteen are open. Students are there in abundance with their text books, perhaps catching up with homework, but on a Sunday! I've already eaten in anticipation this place would be closed, so it's onwards to the express boat, and a trip to the Snake farm.
A visit to the snake farm but it was closed. Quite frustrating since I've walked all the way from the central pier, about 35 minutes - closes at 1 on a Sunday. Well, thats something to see Tuesday. Located almost opposite Silom road, so another chance to wander around some of the stalls lining the pathways. An interesting mix of business's along a few back streets around here. A chemist then about 6 lady bars, a supermarket then more lady bars and dozens of massage joints. All this with some smart, very expensive hotels towering above. It's relatively quiet on this Sunday afternoon so I duck into one of the coffee bars with air-con for an hour, making use of the wifi for some onward travel planning. Koh Samui then onto Penang I think.
It's 5pm, things start to liven up around here. Plenty more stalls are setting up, food on the go and a general buzz about the place. Oh and wandering around here, as a single person invites quite a few touts for the massage joints - cheaper price as well.They'll show pictures of the girls that are allegedly going to perform the massage, dressed in bikinis.
Back to base via the express boat then, and its almost dark, but there is just the faintest shimmering golden glow on the water making for some good photography.
I'm amazed to find that most of the food outlets at the university canteen are open. Students are there in abundance with their text books, perhaps catching up with homework, but on a Sunday! I've already eaten in anticipation this place would be closed, so it's onwards to the express boat, and a trip to the Snake farm.
A visit to the snake farm but it was closed. Quite frustrating since I've walked all the way from the central pier, about 35 minutes - closes at 1 on a Sunday. Well, thats something to see Tuesday. Located almost opposite Silom road, so another chance to wander around some of the stalls lining the pathways. An interesting mix of business's along a few back streets around here. A chemist then about 6 lady bars, a supermarket then more lady bars and dozens of massage joints. All this with some smart, very expensive hotels towering above. It's relatively quiet on this Sunday afternoon so I duck into one of the coffee bars with air-con for an hour, making use of the wifi for some onward travel planning. Koh Samui then onto Penang I think.
It's 5pm, things start to liven up around here. Plenty more stalls are setting up, food on the go and a general buzz about the place. Oh and wandering around here, as a single person invites quite a few touts for the massage joints - cheaper price as well.They'll show pictures of the girls that are allegedly going to perform the massage, dressed in bikinis.
Back to base via the express boat then, and its almost dark, but there is just the faintest shimmering golden glow on the water making for some good photography.
Sunday, 4 March 2012
Bangkok Sky Train March 3 2012
Trains underground, on the ground and in the sky..
What shall i do today? Contemplating the issue over breakfast. Not so hot today thankfully, or perhaps I've just peaked and it really doesn't matter anymore. I have in mind to take a ride on the Sky train from the Saphan taksin station, just a few steps from the Central Pier. The Bangkok Sky Train is an elevated railway serving the city in a North/South direction, and I suppose can be considered as a mass transit system. There is also the conventional surface railway as well as an underground system.
The Central Pier is 20 minutes on the express boat that leaves from near the Thammasat University and getting there is now a well trodden route. Not expecting to see much, if any, activity at the canteen given that it's Saturday. I'm quite surprised to find more people there than ever - a hive of activity as students are engrossed with their studies whilst having their noodles or rice. Rice, pork, a green vegetable, a brown egg and something else I don't know what on my plate. All very tasty though for 35 b, about 80p, with a refreshing breeze for free.
Through the University garden and into the small market that lines the road all the way to the pier - a small market by Asian standards that is. Onto the express boat then and the next 20 minutes at least is some relief from the humidity. Off the boat and it's just a few yards to the steps leading up to the Sky Train. Quite a long way up, to get the ticket and up again to get on the train. The end of the line is also where there is a market, renowned for being the biggest and most interesting in all Bangkok. So for 88p it's off to another market. A panoramic view of the city from up here. A vast area of concrete and glass extending upwards as the train heads north. The train is smart, clean and distinctly cold. Packed with locals mostly, probably all heading to the market.
About 25 minutes to the end of the line and another 10 minutes to exit the station. Since there are so many people here there is something of a traffic jam as everyone slowly shuffles down to ground level. Everyone is cutting through the park, I'll just follow since its in the general direction I need to be anyway. I don't anticipate being here for long, since these markets have lost their appeal, several weeks ago.
This market is unsurprisingly big, extending a long way over the horizon, almost! Hot to, but still quite pleasant out of the sun. Some quite desirable goods here, especially fashion wise. Silk features heavily, along with cotton and other fabrics. Some smart designs but expensive by Southeast Asian standards. Prices are cheaper on the fringes, similar to those in the British Primark stores. Indulgence as I spend £2.20 on a t-shirt. Not much in the way of live chickens, ducks or dead snakes here, actually nothing like that at all!
The train has a stop in Silom, so I'll stop there for a bit. From what I saw yesterday, the place is potted with large shopping complexes which should mean some nice air conditioning. Bangkok also has an underground railway system and shred the station with the Sky Train here. Getting into it though is like being at an airport. Baggage search and body scan machines are required, but once underground then it's into another shopping arcade before descending again to the station. Groups of young people grouped into corners and along walls, taking advantage of the cool, air conditioned space.
Tickets are priced the same as Sky Train and trains are just as cold. Getting off at the Silom stop for another quick look around here. This time there's more going on, probably being a Saturday helps. Stalls line the Silom road on one side, heading to the river and selling a variety of items. I splurge again, and buy another t-shirt, a bit more expensive but nicely designed. I hadn't spotted these before, but there are signs protruding off buildings clearly indicating that any tourist wandering around here might be entering a Triple X zone!. Despite this, Silom is a good district for shopping, often coming across smart, unusual fashion designs among other things. Ducking into a plaza every so often to cool down whilst heading back towards the pier. According to a weather website, the temperature is hovering around the 35-36 deg c level.
Back on the express boat, heading for pier 9 as the sun sets , making for some scenic city snaps.
What shall i do today? Contemplating the issue over breakfast. Not so hot today thankfully, or perhaps I've just peaked and it really doesn't matter anymore. I have in mind to take a ride on the Sky train from the Saphan taksin station, just a few steps from the Central Pier. The Bangkok Sky Train is an elevated railway serving the city in a North/South direction, and I suppose can be considered as a mass transit system. There is also the conventional surface railway as well as an underground system.
The Central Pier is 20 minutes on the express boat that leaves from near the Thammasat University and getting there is now a well trodden route. Not expecting to see much, if any, activity at the canteen given that it's Saturday. I'm quite surprised to find more people there than ever - a hive of activity as students are engrossed with their studies whilst having their noodles or rice. Rice, pork, a green vegetable, a brown egg and something else I don't know what on my plate. All very tasty though for 35 b, about 80p, with a refreshing breeze for free.
Through the University garden and into the small market that lines the road all the way to the pier - a small market by Asian standards that is. Onto the express boat then and the next 20 minutes at least is some relief from the humidity. Off the boat and it's just a few yards to the steps leading up to the Sky Train. Quite a long way up, to get the ticket and up again to get on the train. The end of the line is also where there is a market, renowned for being the biggest and most interesting in all Bangkok. So for 88p it's off to another market. A panoramic view of the city from up here. A vast area of concrete and glass extending upwards as the train heads north. The train is smart, clean and distinctly cold. Packed with locals mostly, probably all heading to the market.
About 25 minutes to the end of the line and another 10 minutes to exit the station. Since there are so many people here there is something of a traffic jam as everyone slowly shuffles down to ground level. Everyone is cutting through the park, I'll just follow since its in the general direction I need to be anyway. I don't anticipate being here for long, since these markets have lost their appeal, several weeks ago.
This market is unsurprisingly big, extending a long way over the horizon, almost! Hot to, but still quite pleasant out of the sun. Some quite desirable goods here, especially fashion wise. Silk features heavily, along with cotton and other fabrics. Some smart designs but expensive by Southeast Asian standards. Prices are cheaper on the fringes, similar to those in the British Primark stores. Indulgence as I spend £2.20 on a t-shirt. Not much in the way of live chickens, ducks or dead snakes here, actually nothing like that at all!
The train has a stop in Silom, so I'll stop there for a bit. From what I saw yesterday, the place is potted with large shopping complexes which should mean some nice air conditioning. Bangkok also has an underground railway system and shred the station with the Sky Train here. Getting into it though is like being at an airport. Baggage search and body scan machines are required, but once underground then it's into another shopping arcade before descending again to the station. Groups of young people grouped into corners and along walls, taking advantage of the cool, air conditioned space.
Tickets are priced the same as Sky Train and trains are just as cold. Getting off at the Silom stop for another quick look around here. This time there's more going on, probably being a Saturday helps. Stalls line the Silom road on one side, heading to the river and selling a variety of items. I splurge again, and buy another t-shirt, a bit more expensive but nicely designed. I hadn't spotted these before, but there are signs protruding off buildings clearly indicating that any tourist wandering around here might be entering a Triple X zone!. Despite this, Silom is a good district for shopping, often coming across smart, unusual fashion designs among other things. Ducking into a plaza every so often to cool down whilst heading back towards the pier. According to a weather website, the temperature is hovering around the 35-36 deg c level.
Back on the express boat, heading for pier 9 as the sun sets , making for some scenic city snaps.
Friday, 2 March 2012
Bangkok Silom 2 March 2012
Chao Phraya Express to Silom
Good news this morning, they have a 1 person room available and it's mine! Moving then for the third and hopefully the final time for a week or so. It's hot though but I'm just going to have to get used to it. After all, for £3.33 per night there isn't going to be any luxuries!
Doing anything much before and around midday is quite hard work, even for the locals. People are just milling about with cold drinks, taking advantage of the occasional slight breeze. The university canteen by the river is always a cool spot - the river breeze always blows through here. After about 1 there seems more of a breeze and it's a good time to make a move.
I'm going to take a boat and head South to the district called Silom. The Chao Phraya Express boat go's from the same pier as yesterday, Pier number 9 also called Tha Chang, according to the tourist map. Quite well orientated with this area just beyond the university. The boats are alongside every 10 minutes in each direction, but it's not clear which pier they will be at since there are 3 of these floating structures. Asking around and I'm joining a queue for the next boat southbound. These boats don't hang around. About a minute tops and they pull away no exceptions. They are fast boats too, creating quite substantial wash effecting the other boats tied up along the route. Someone comes up rattling a tin at me, I need to pay 15 bht. It's a nice trip on the Chao Phraya river - cool and less humidity for a while. A good vantage point to see the Bangkok skyline as a few tourists get to work with their various photography gadgets. I'll snap my photos going back since the sun will be in a better position by then.
20 minutes and the Central pier is alongside. I'm getting off here, probably for a couple of hours. A few steps ahead is a Bangkok Sky Train station, worth noting since from here the rest of the city can be accessed. A few more steps and there it is, another market! Silom is where the smart, expensive 100$ and upwards rooms can be found. The likes of Hilton, Holiday Inn etc are all here and seem to be part of this Plaza and that Plaza! The area beyond though isn't really anything exciting. A few street vendors and rows of shops selling and dealing in silver, gems and textile materials. there isn't anything like the atmosphere surrounding Khao San here, just streams of traffic all trying to get on the Rama VI expressway heading out of the city. Some smart multilevel expensive shopping plazas with food courts and McDonald's, where a small latte will cost £1.33. Silom is also the district to find some alternative entertainment, but I didn't spot anything, I really didn't.
Back on the boat, south towards Tha Chang again, snapping some skyline scenes as the sun begins to set. A good trip, there and back for 66p, getting to look at another district if only to make an informed comparison.
Good news this morning, they have a 1 person room available and it's mine! Moving then for the third and hopefully the final time for a week or so. It's hot though but I'm just going to have to get used to it. After all, for £3.33 per night there isn't going to be any luxuries!
Doing anything much before and around midday is quite hard work, even for the locals. People are just milling about with cold drinks, taking advantage of the occasional slight breeze. The university canteen by the river is always a cool spot - the river breeze always blows through here. After about 1 there seems more of a breeze and it's a good time to make a move.
I'm going to take a boat and head South to the district called Silom. The Chao Phraya Express boat go's from the same pier as yesterday, Pier number 9 also called Tha Chang, according to the tourist map. Quite well orientated with this area just beyond the university. The boats are alongside every 10 minutes in each direction, but it's not clear which pier they will be at since there are 3 of these floating structures. Asking around and I'm joining a queue for the next boat southbound. These boats don't hang around. About a minute tops and they pull away no exceptions. They are fast boats too, creating quite substantial wash effecting the other boats tied up along the route. Someone comes up rattling a tin at me, I need to pay 15 bht. It's a nice trip on the Chao Phraya river - cool and less humidity for a while. A good vantage point to see the Bangkok skyline as a few tourists get to work with their various photography gadgets. I'll snap my photos going back since the sun will be in a better position by then.
20 minutes and the Central pier is alongside. I'm getting off here, probably for a couple of hours. A few steps ahead is a Bangkok Sky Train station, worth noting since from here the rest of the city can be accessed. A few more steps and there it is, another market! Silom is where the smart, expensive 100$ and upwards rooms can be found. The likes of Hilton, Holiday Inn etc are all here and seem to be part of this Plaza and that Plaza! The area beyond though isn't really anything exciting. A few street vendors and rows of shops selling and dealing in silver, gems and textile materials. there isn't anything like the atmosphere surrounding Khao San here, just streams of traffic all trying to get on the Rama VI expressway heading out of the city. Some smart multilevel expensive shopping plazas with food courts and McDonald's, where a small latte will cost £1.33. Silom is also the district to find some alternative entertainment, but I didn't spot anything, I really didn't.
Back on the boat, south towards Tha Chang again, snapping some skyline scenes as the sun begins to set. A good trip, there and back for 66p, getting to look at another district if only to make an informed comparison.
Thursday, 1 March 2012
Bangkok Thonburi 1 March 2012
On the Move Again..
On the move again to place number three. Too hot at that last place, despite there being a fan in the room. It's actually hard to get one of the 150 b single rooms around the Khao San area, always full so far. Only a doubles are ever available, with fan but for 300 b, about £6.50 it's OK and within budget. But they don't give much here, in comparison to Vietnam and Cambodia. No Fridge, no free wifi and no TV. Just a bed, a roof and 4 neglected walls. Want a towel, it's another 20 b, have my own thankfully. Improvisation needed here. Take the 1 double fitted sheet supplied free, tie a knot in 1 end, fold in half and pin together the seam. Hey presto, a sleeping bag, that should keep most bugs away!
It's hot, quite muggy but with a slight breeze, must be in the region of 35 - manageable, just. Late lunch at Thammasat, a spaghetti bolognaise for 25 b, water for 7 b then off to find that ferry. There is a sign, and in English, spotted Inbetween the all to familiar food stalls and oddly enough loads of stalls selling old coins.
The ferry is 3 b, just 6p for the 5 minute ride across, passengers only, no motorbikes, no cars. A nice breeze from the river, and for those 5 minutes, less humidity. Getting off and straight into another market - seems to be part of Bangkok river life, or Bangkok is just one giant market place, bit of both probably. Thonburi is the area here, bustling with locals, schools and the school run, typically from 3.30pm onwards. Thonburi has a railway station and a community built alongside one of Bangkok's numerous canals. Quite quaint, no tourists but a good opportunity to see the comings and goings unhindered. The railway line leads into a yard and some rather neglected carriages. A resting place for a couple of disused engines, steam engines I think, but not having a great deal of interest in trains I might be wrong about that. A good hour wandering around, snapping an alternative part of Bangkok life along the waterside and around the rail yard.
Back to the ferry, following the railway line towards the underpass. A host of food stalls here, along with a small kids park. 5 darts to throw at 5 balloons lined up, or try to catch a fish. A bath of about 500 live little fishes that kids have to try and catch. Bouncy slide, a few other rides, all located conveniently next to the school.
Back on the ferry, this time going to another pier, further up which means I have further to walk. Quickest route to base is back through Thammasat University and that means stopping for some food - pork and noodle soup at 25 b. Nearly 8 weeks into the trip and time to take stock of finances. On average it's been around £12 per day food and accommodation. So, if I can keep to budget, living expenses for the six months should amount to just over £2000. The air ticket to get here was £650. Best value so far has been Cambodia.
On the move again to place number three. Too hot at that last place, despite there being a fan in the room. It's actually hard to get one of the 150 b single rooms around the Khao San area, always full so far. Only a doubles are ever available, with fan but for 300 b, about £6.50 it's OK and within budget. But they don't give much here, in comparison to Vietnam and Cambodia. No Fridge, no free wifi and no TV. Just a bed, a roof and 4 neglected walls. Want a towel, it's another 20 b, have my own thankfully. Improvisation needed here. Take the 1 double fitted sheet supplied free, tie a knot in 1 end, fold in half and pin together the seam. Hey presto, a sleeping bag, that should keep most bugs away!
It's hot, quite muggy but with a slight breeze, must be in the region of 35 - manageable, just. Late lunch at Thammasat, a spaghetti bolognaise for 25 b, water for 7 b then off to find that ferry. There is a sign, and in English, spotted Inbetween the all to familiar food stalls and oddly enough loads of stalls selling old coins.
The ferry is 3 b, just 6p for the 5 minute ride across, passengers only, no motorbikes, no cars. A nice breeze from the river, and for those 5 minutes, less humidity. Getting off and straight into another market - seems to be part of Bangkok river life, or Bangkok is just one giant market place, bit of both probably. Thonburi is the area here, bustling with locals, schools and the school run, typically from 3.30pm onwards. Thonburi has a railway station and a community built alongside one of Bangkok's numerous canals. Quite quaint, no tourists but a good opportunity to see the comings and goings unhindered. The railway line leads into a yard and some rather neglected carriages. A resting place for a couple of disused engines, steam engines I think, but not having a great deal of interest in trains I might be wrong about that. A good hour wandering around, snapping an alternative part of Bangkok life along the waterside and around the rail yard.
Back to the ferry, following the railway line towards the underpass. A host of food stalls here, along with a small kids park. 5 darts to throw at 5 balloons lined up, or try to catch a fish. A bath of about 500 live little fishes that kids have to try and catch. Bouncy slide, a few other rides, all located conveniently next to the school.
Back on the ferry, this time going to another pier, further up which means I have further to walk. Quickest route to base is back through Thammasat University and that means stopping for some food - pork and noodle soup at 25 b. Nearly 8 weeks into the trip and time to take stock of finances. On average it's been around £12 per day food and accommodation. So, if I can keep to budget, living expenses for the six months should amount to just over £2000. The air ticket to get here was £650. Best value so far has been Cambodia.
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