Bangkok Hualamphong...
Hua Lam Phong is Bangkok's city station where trains to most parts of Thailand are found, especially heading South towards Pattaya, or Butterworth. Best way to ensure an official ticket and price is to enquire directly at the station. Ticket agents are only too happy to book a seat and Inflate the price to unsuspecting tourists. Best way of getting there from Khoa San without paying for a taxi and minimise walking, is to get the express boat to Marine pier and according to the map Hua Lam Phong is just a short walk North.
The Thammasat canteen is closed today, looks like a spring cleaning day. The library is closed too. No matter, I'm sure to find sustenance at the station. It's quiet around here, just me getting off at Marine Pier. A sign says this way to China town, and it's in the right direction so heading towards there looking out for any indication of a train station. Not really much to say that this is China town other than a few hanging lanterns and Chinese writing here and there. No densely packed streets full of restaurants, or even people, very quiet. Sandbags still piled up along side streets almost ready for the next time. I would actually rename this place 'Grease Monkeys Town' given the plethora of shops and premises overflowing with old engine bits and pieces. Pavements are greased and cluttered with machinery and tools associated with taking engines apart and putting them together again. Perhaps China town is further on, but for now I need to cut through to the station. A large bejewelled temple on the left, large enough to have tourists wandering around and climbing the tower. Good for a snap but right now I must get to the station.
A grand white building and from an architectural perspective pleasing to look at. Ornate pillars edged with gold, walls adorned with giant posters of the King accentuates the grandeur, almost palatial look to this building. Inside, the functions of a railway station. Cool, bright and aired, a rather big hall serves as a waiting room, with reserved seating for monks. Its packed out with mostly locals glued to the information signs. A long line of ticket counters, about 19, means no queueing and an official is wandering around giving seemingly confused tourists vital information on train travel in Thailand. I have the details I need for my train trip to Butterworth , Maylasia. A host of food outlets and shops populate the edge, upper tier and the pathways just by the entrance, and talking of food, I need some. A stand selling a mixture of porridge and semolina, mixed with pork and a few fragrant vegetables. I saw plenty of this in Vietnam, but wasn't really enthused with it then, but I'll try some now. Well, all I can say is don't eat this if there is a choice on offer - edible, just!
There is a small exhibition here documenting how people coped with the extensive flooding across the city late last year. Postersize photos of crowds fleeing areas, traffic jams and water filled streets all depicting the chaotic scenes and suffering endured by the cities inhabitants. Moving images of children in distress being carried away, and Improvisation was the key to survival for some as the display shows how a wheelie bin was turned into a canoe, and various household items were used to construct a raft. So, what i expected to be a relatively boring afternoon at the railway station has actually turned into an interesting few hours.
Saturday, 10 March 2012
Thursday, 8 March 2012
New Itinerary 7th March 2012
New Destinations..
Have spent a good few hours weighing up the pros and cons of onward travel following the near demise and continuing problems of Kingfisher Airlines. The original plan to spend time in India is now shelved and a new itinerary has emerged after days and hours of self-deliberation. Thanks largely to Air Asia having a last minute seat sale I now have a revised travel plan thus:
27th March : Bangkok - Butterworth overnight sleeper train. 28.0 GBP
28th March : Butterworth - Penang Ferry
9th April : Penang - Langkawi Air Asia 16.83 GBP
12th April : Langkawi - Kuala Lumpur Air Asia 27.40 GBP
18th April : Kuala Lumpur - Kota Kinabalu Malaysia Borneo Air Asia 24.86 GBP
2nd May :Kota Kinabalu - Kuala Lumpur - Phnom Penh Air Asia 31.55 GBP 27.56 GBP
And thats where I run out of money! Only joking.. I have to be out of Phnom Penh by 2nd June and in Bangkok by 17th June for the flight home. So as yet 16 unfilled days, suggestions welcome. 128.20 GBP for 5 flights I think represents a good deal. Replacing the flights lost to Kingfisher would have amounted to about 160 GBP.
Have spent a good few hours weighing up the pros and cons of onward travel following the near demise and continuing problems of Kingfisher Airlines. The original plan to spend time in India is now shelved and a new itinerary has emerged after days and hours of self-deliberation. Thanks largely to Air Asia having a last minute seat sale I now have a revised travel plan thus:
27th March : Bangkok - Butterworth overnight sleeper train. 28.0 GBP
28th March : Butterworth - Penang Ferry
9th April : Penang - Langkawi Air Asia 16.83 GBP
12th April : Langkawi - Kuala Lumpur Air Asia 27.40 GBP
18th April : Kuala Lumpur - Kota Kinabalu Malaysia Borneo Air Asia 24.86 GBP
2nd May :Kota Kinabalu - Kuala Lumpur - Phnom Penh Air Asia 31.55 GBP 27.56 GBP
And thats where I run out of money! Only joking.. I have to be out of Phnom Penh by 2nd June and in Bangkok by 17th June for the flight home. So as yet 16 unfilled days, suggestions welcome. 128.20 GBP for 5 flights I think represents a good deal. Replacing the flights lost to Kingfisher would have amounted to about 160 GBP.
Snake Farm Bangkok 6th March 2012
So far so good..
Tuesday, just over a week into my Thailand expedition and have so far survived unscathed. The car is king on the streets of Bangkok. There are cars everywhere, but for the most part on the move. An inevitable consequence of any nation aspiring to Western standards I suppose - noise, fumes and big roads to try and cross. Actually crossing the roads, the busy wide ones is less of a problem since there are controlled crossings at frequent intervals. Some motorbikes, but not the thousands I had experienced in Vietnam, and the driving looks quite disciplined with drivers sticking to the rules, at traffic lights especially. If it wasn't for the fact that traffic cops are everywhere, every corner, junction and even public car parks, then the scenario might be very different.
Snake farm today, the second attempt at this since my last visit there ended somewhat prematurely! The fastest and cheapest way of getting there that involves the least amount of walking Is to take the express boat south along the river, getting off at the Central pier. Walking from the Khao San area is possible of course - allow about 2 hours and plenty of bottled water. Thammasat canteen to grab some lunch before getting the boat. This time it's coconut curry - almost as delicious as the Thai yellow curry, and only 44p for a good plateful. Hot, so I'm walking in the covered walkway and past the entrance to the library. A quick look around here, just out of curiosity. Only members allowed into the library since electronic gates control access but there is a coffee and cake stand here. It's a real coffee place, the full bean roasted stuff. It's 44p for a modest cup of Americano, just a bit more for anything else, and the place is fully air conditioned too, quite a little oasis in the middle of Bangkok. I can see this becoming a regular visit, just as regular as the canteen is!
On the boat heading south to Central Pier taking advantage of the refreshing breeze. From the pier, it's basically head north until the main Rama highway and follow that to the left. It's taking a good few minutes to cross the highway, with traffic light timings not particularly aligned to the needs of the pedestrian, but after a good 35 minutes walking the snake farm entrance emerges on the right, actually on the Rama road.
The Snake farm is attached to the Red Cross and is a research and production facility into making anti-venom. Closes at 4.30 and it's now 3.15. Normally costs 200 b to get in here but since it's late and I've missed the demos I'm waived the fee - nice of them, thank you. Demos in snake handling according to a sign on the wall. I assume this is throwing around a Python and letting the audience get up close and personal. There is also a how to demo on venom extraction I believe, so that might have been interesting. Anyway, I've missed all that action today so I'll just take a wander around and tease a few of the inmates here. There don't really appear to be that many exhibits that I can see, maybe half a dozen glass tanks and a few snake pits in the middle. Nothing is moving apart from a few snakes in one tank and getting any reasonable photos is proving frustrating. Further along is a rather large cage, about the size of a bungalow. Its the King Cobra's residence, a few of them actually and quite active. Scary moments here as one of them decides to try and get personal! Smaller snakes hanging from twigs look at me rather ominously then slip quickly away into a pond. A good 20 minutes here watching the Cobras slither up and down branches. Overall, the place was disappointing, even more so if I had to pay the £4.40 entrance. In comparing this with the Snake house in Sihanoukville, 4 out of 10. Snake house was free, easily triple the varieties on show and photography was comparatively easy, and it was free. I don't think even with the demos, £4.40 justifies the fee to get in here, Red Cross or not!
Tuesday, just over a week into my Thailand expedition and have so far survived unscathed. The car is king on the streets of Bangkok. There are cars everywhere, but for the most part on the move. An inevitable consequence of any nation aspiring to Western standards I suppose - noise, fumes and big roads to try and cross. Actually crossing the roads, the busy wide ones is less of a problem since there are controlled crossings at frequent intervals. Some motorbikes, but not the thousands I had experienced in Vietnam, and the driving looks quite disciplined with drivers sticking to the rules, at traffic lights especially. If it wasn't for the fact that traffic cops are everywhere, every corner, junction and even public car parks, then the scenario might be very different.
Snake farm today, the second attempt at this since my last visit there ended somewhat prematurely! The fastest and cheapest way of getting there that involves the least amount of walking Is to take the express boat south along the river, getting off at the Central pier. Walking from the Khao San area is possible of course - allow about 2 hours and plenty of bottled water. Thammasat canteen to grab some lunch before getting the boat. This time it's coconut curry - almost as delicious as the Thai yellow curry, and only 44p for a good plateful. Hot, so I'm walking in the covered walkway and past the entrance to the library. A quick look around here, just out of curiosity. Only members allowed into the library since electronic gates control access but there is a coffee and cake stand here. It's a real coffee place, the full bean roasted stuff. It's 44p for a modest cup of Americano, just a bit more for anything else, and the place is fully air conditioned too, quite a little oasis in the middle of Bangkok. I can see this becoming a regular visit, just as regular as the canteen is!
On the boat heading south to Central Pier taking advantage of the refreshing breeze. From the pier, it's basically head north until the main Rama highway and follow that to the left. It's taking a good few minutes to cross the highway, with traffic light timings not particularly aligned to the needs of the pedestrian, but after a good 35 minutes walking the snake farm entrance emerges on the right, actually on the Rama road.
The Snake farm is attached to the Red Cross and is a research and production facility into making anti-venom. Closes at 4.30 and it's now 3.15. Normally costs 200 b to get in here but since it's late and I've missed the demos I'm waived the fee - nice of them, thank you. Demos in snake handling according to a sign on the wall. I assume this is throwing around a Python and letting the audience get up close and personal. There is also a how to demo on venom extraction I believe, so that might have been interesting. Anyway, I've missed all that action today so I'll just take a wander around and tease a few of the inmates here. There don't really appear to be that many exhibits that I can see, maybe half a dozen glass tanks and a few snake pits in the middle. Nothing is moving apart from a few snakes in one tank and getting any reasonable photos is proving frustrating. Further along is a rather large cage, about the size of a bungalow. Its the King Cobra's residence, a few of them actually and quite active. Scary moments here as one of them decides to try and get personal! Smaller snakes hanging from twigs look at me rather ominously then slip quickly away into a pond. A good 20 minutes here watching the Cobras slither up and down branches. Overall, the place was disappointing, even more so if I had to pay the £4.40 entrance. In comparing this with the Snake house in Sihanoukville, 4 out of 10. Snake house was free, easily triple the varieties on show and photography was comparatively easy, and it was free. I don't think even with the demos, £4.40 justifies the fee to get in here, Red Cross or not!
Tuesday, 6 March 2012
Snaps from The River Kwai, Thailand 6th March 2012
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| Some old kit used to transport materials.. |
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| Oriental Exprerss.. |
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| 1200 GBP to ride on this train.. |
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| Run for it.. |
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| The Bridge.. |
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| River Kwai |
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| River Kwai tourist bungalows |
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| Beside the river.. |
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| River Scene |
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| The old Bridge |
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| Creeping along at 2 mph |
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| Made it... |
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| Nice tourist resort on the Kwai |
Death Railway Bangkok March 5th 2012
Bridge over the River Kwai..
Train leaves from Thonburi station, the other side of the river at 7.50, so up at 6.30. 15 minutes to the ferry, 5 minutes to cross the river and about 20 minutes to the station. Should all work out with time to spare. Through the Thammasat canteen, nothing much going on this time of the morning not that I had time to stop anyway. A ferry was docked waiting for people to jump on. That they did and soon it was heading over to the opposite pier, just by the Black Canyon Coffee Shop, or the Hospital might be a better landmark.
All is going to plan as I grab a Danish pastry from the corner, 15 b, that's 33p roughly. The route to the station basically follows the elevated highway after turning right out of the road leading to the pier. 20 minutes and there's the station. A small local place serving mostly commuters with 2 trains a day running out into neighbouring provinces. There is bit of a queue for tickets, not a big deal since I have time to spare. 100 b, £2.20, and it's the train to Nam Tok that I need if I am to ride the "Railway of Death" over the River Kwai. Just enough time to grab some supplies from the market opposite - water, bananas and a pork satay. The train is supposed to depart 7.50 but finally gets going 20 minutes late.
Thonburi in times past was a city in its own right, but now is a suburb of Bangkok, and is considerably less adorned with smart developments. The train rolls through a poor neighbourhood with shacks both sides of the line. It's not wise to stick ones head out of the window since its just millimetres between the corrugated iron roofs and the carriage! Occasionally whitewashed housing blocks appear from behind the line of shacks, perhaps an indication things might be changing for the better. Further from town, about 20 minutes along the line, a complex of housing blocks just laying empty. Now into a very rural scene as bamboo and corrugated iron structures are replaced with, well, a few more bamboo structures, probably farmers dwellings. Irrigation channels with banana trees each side, rice paddies then a fish farm and more banana plantations, all very green and lush.The train stops at some obscure locations, just a name and a concrete shelter. Sometimes not even a platform as locals stumble across the track. Towns come and go with various methods employed to stop traffic getting in the way. Sometimes it's a guard pulling an iron gate across, or it's an automatic barrier, but often nothing other than flashing lights.
Until now the train has been mostly empty, but there appears to be quite a crowd coming up the platform. Looks like a school outing wants to ride over the River Kwai too. A 10 minute stop here, and sitting directly opposite is the Oriental Express train that operates the Singapore to Bangkok route for people with money to burn. A ticket to take that train is a cool £1200 according to a Google search. I can see a waiter tending to one of the cabins, setting out a fruit bowl with a bottle of something, wrapped in cloth next to it. What I don't see is any passengers though!. Still quite someway from the Kwai bridge, so why here?
Train setts off again and mountains are visible obscured with mist and haze. It's hot now, much hotter, even the breeze is hot, but manageable since there is a fan and some shady areas in the train. Kanchanaburi station sees more tourists alight. 3 minutes later the next station, it's the River Kwai Bridge station and an exchange of tourists. Getting off here won't get the ride across the bridge and the even more dramatic scenery further along Won't be experienced (according to research that is). A small display of old steam train engines here, presumably used during the 1943 era when the bridge was constructed.
The train creeps along at walking pace. Everyone hangs out of any available window space to snap away at this probably one time event. So, here I am, on the Bridge over the River Kwai, quite a significant event. Quite a sight as the bridge creaks, taking the strain admirably one more time, and hopefully again since I need to return. Tourists are around in quite a number and some have been walking on the track. They are forced onto platforms jutting out over the river as the train creeps past. It's been nearly 4 hours getting here, but well worth it, so far anyway.
Over the bridge and the train picks up speed - clickety clack, clickety clack. Looking down on the river for a few minutes then it's parting of the ways as the train continues to Nom Tok. The scene changes again as the river once more flows below. The train slows to a crawl and eases onto another wood and iron creaking bridge. It's the Thamakase bridge, another famous landmark and provides some spectacular scenery. The Kwai below, steep mountain on the right, hills on the left and lots of lush greenery.
A problem is apparent. The train back to Bangkok is timed at 12.55pm and it's already 1.05. That's the last train until about 5am next morning! I'm told by a local it's the same train back, but probably won't get a ticket in time - no tickets are sold on board, apparently, so looks like I might be staying the night at Nom Tok. There is however a bus to Bangkok that leaves at 3, might be true, might not, but it's a glimmer of hope to hang onto for now. Train rolls into Nom Tok at 1.15. It's taken 5 1/2 hours to get here, but really hasn't seemed like it. Luck is on my side as the carriage pulls right alongside the ticket counter. I have 5 minutes while the engine is replaced for the return trip. Another 100 b and back on the train - another 5 hours! If all had gone to plan, there would be about 30 minutes to wander around here, get lunch etc...
Back on the death railway, heading towards the "Bridge over the River Kwai" once more. More pictures, more video and more hanging out the window. Loads of tourists still milling around, their coaches lined up just yards from the rail line. Rolling on back to Bangkok then on what can be described as I suppose a 3rd class train - it's the only class there is on this route. It's grubby, torn fabric on the seats and ants, quite a few are munching on dropped crumbs and taking the occasional chunk out of my leg, but for £4.40 for a 10 hour trip, I shouldn't really complain. Actually, has to be the most memorable train ride ever, no toilet smells either. Not having had time to get any food I'm thankful of the hawkers that ply the train on a continuous basis. Food and drink is available, and at a reasonable price. About £1 for some kind of rice, omelet and vegetable and a can of cold sweet coffee was about 55p. Train rolls back into Bangkok Thonburi, 6.30pm, much cooler now, but I need a shower and something to eat and then....Zzzzz
Train leaves from Thonburi station, the other side of the river at 7.50, so up at 6.30. 15 minutes to the ferry, 5 minutes to cross the river and about 20 minutes to the station. Should all work out with time to spare. Through the Thammasat canteen, nothing much going on this time of the morning not that I had time to stop anyway. A ferry was docked waiting for people to jump on. That they did and soon it was heading over to the opposite pier, just by the Black Canyon Coffee Shop, or the Hospital might be a better landmark.
All is going to plan as I grab a Danish pastry from the corner, 15 b, that's 33p roughly. The route to the station basically follows the elevated highway after turning right out of the road leading to the pier. 20 minutes and there's the station. A small local place serving mostly commuters with 2 trains a day running out into neighbouring provinces. There is bit of a queue for tickets, not a big deal since I have time to spare. 100 b, £2.20, and it's the train to Nam Tok that I need if I am to ride the "Railway of Death" over the River Kwai. Just enough time to grab some supplies from the market opposite - water, bananas and a pork satay. The train is supposed to depart 7.50 but finally gets going 20 minutes late.
Thonburi in times past was a city in its own right, but now is a suburb of Bangkok, and is considerably less adorned with smart developments. The train rolls through a poor neighbourhood with shacks both sides of the line. It's not wise to stick ones head out of the window since its just millimetres between the corrugated iron roofs and the carriage! Occasionally whitewashed housing blocks appear from behind the line of shacks, perhaps an indication things might be changing for the better. Further from town, about 20 minutes along the line, a complex of housing blocks just laying empty. Now into a very rural scene as bamboo and corrugated iron structures are replaced with, well, a few more bamboo structures, probably farmers dwellings. Irrigation channels with banana trees each side, rice paddies then a fish farm and more banana plantations, all very green and lush.The train stops at some obscure locations, just a name and a concrete shelter. Sometimes not even a platform as locals stumble across the track. Towns come and go with various methods employed to stop traffic getting in the way. Sometimes it's a guard pulling an iron gate across, or it's an automatic barrier, but often nothing other than flashing lights.
Until now the train has been mostly empty, but there appears to be quite a crowd coming up the platform. Looks like a school outing wants to ride over the River Kwai too. A 10 minute stop here, and sitting directly opposite is the Oriental Express train that operates the Singapore to Bangkok route for people with money to burn. A ticket to take that train is a cool £1200 according to a Google search. I can see a waiter tending to one of the cabins, setting out a fruit bowl with a bottle of something, wrapped in cloth next to it. What I don't see is any passengers though!. Still quite someway from the Kwai bridge, so why here?
Train setts off again and mountains are visible obscured with mist and haze. It's hot now, much hotter, even the breeze is hot, but manageable since there is a fan and some shady areas in the train. Kanchanaburi station sees more tourists alight. 3 minutes later the next station, it's the River Kwai Bridge station and an exchange of tourists. Getting off here won't get the ride across the bridge and the even more dramatic scenery further along Won't be experienced (according to research that is). A small display of old steam train engines here, presumably used during the 1943 era when the bridge was constructed.
The train creeps along at walking pace. Everyone hangs out of any available window space to snap away at this probably one time event. So, here I am, on the Bridge over the River Kwai, quite a significant event. Quite a sight as the bridge creaks, taking the strain admirably one more time, and hopefully again since I need to return. Tourists are around in quite a number and some have been walking on the track. They are forced onto platforms jutting out over the river as the train creeps past. It's been nearly 4 hours getting here, but well worth it, so far anyway.
Over the bridge and the train picks up speed - clickety clack, clickety clack. Looking down on the river for a few minutes then it's parting of the ways as the train continues to Nom Tok. The scene changes again as the river once more flows below. The train slows to a crawl and eases onto another wood and iron creaking bridge. It's the Thamakase bridge, another famous landmark and provides some spectacular scenery. The Kwai below, steep mountain on the right, hills on the left and lots of lush greenery.
A problem is apparent. The train back to Bangkok is timed at 12.55pm and it's already 1.05. That's the last train until about 5am next morning! I'm told by a local it's the same train back, but probably won't get a ticket in time - no tickets are sold on board, apparently, so looks like I might be staying the night at Nom Tok. There is however a bus to Bangkok that leaves at 3, might be true, might not, but it's a glimmer of hope to hang onto for now. Train rolls into Nom Tok at 1.15. It's taken 5 1/2 hours to get here, but really hasn't seemed like it. Luck is on my side as the carriage pulls right alongside the ticket counter. I have 5 minutes while the engine is replaced for the return trip. Another 100 b and back on the train - another 5 hours! If all had gone to plan, there would be about 30 minutes to wander around here, get lunch etc...
Back on the death railway, heading towards the "Bridge over the River Kwai" once more. More pictures, more video and more hanging out the window. Loads of tourists still milling around, their coaches lined up just yards from the rail line. Rolling on back to Bangkok then on what can be described as I suppose a 3rd class train - it's the only class there is on this route. It's grubby, torn fabric on the seats and ants, quite a few are munching on dropped crumbs and taking the occasional chunk out of my leg, but for £4.40 for a 10 hour trip, I shouldn't really complain. Actually, has to be the most memorable train ride ever, no toilet smells either. Not having had time to get any food I'm thankful of the hawkers that ply the train on a continuous basis. Food and drink is available, and at a reasonable price. About £1 for some kind of rice, omelet and vegetable and a can of cold sweet coffee was about 55p. Train rolls back into Bangkok Thonburi, 6.30pm, much cooler now, but I need a shower and something to eat and then....Zzzzz
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