Monday, 13 January 2014

Monkeys above, Kathmandu, Nepal, 9th January 2014

Above Kathmandu...

As the main road takes a sharp right and all that mayhem with it, I'll take the left fork which looks considerably less congested! A quiet lane with some nicely constructed and colourful villas with the occasional hovel alongside. Dogs and chickens, free range, poking around in the garbage. Free range kids too, playing on dusty open spaces when they ought to be in school I suspect. And then there are the really little kids, the ones sent out to beg - dirty, bedraggled but experts in picking out tourists from a distance.

More lanes as my inbuilt directional systems indicate straight on is good for that temple on the hill. A bridge across a rather wide river, it's railings painted yellow - another useful landmark for the return journey. A river that serves as the city dump, sewerage outlet and playground for pigs! Moving swiftly on as a whiff of poo sticks to the throat. Across the bridge then and it looks like the next steps are up, up and up. Plenty of people milling about as well as a few monkeys. Actually these steps are never ending, I mean I don't see the top but I do see statues and religious architecture periodically.

Finally, almost there but not before a man wants to relieve me of 200 Rupees before any onward travel. Well, I've come this far, to tired to argue and it's a long way down again! Actually it's quite a view looking back through the trees. Pretty much the whole city can be seen through the mist and haze.

A good couple of hours wandering around the terraces of the 'Monkey Temple' and monkeys there are - must be at least a hundred, but all seem pretty well tempered, so far! Stunning views high above the City, the valley and surrounding mountains with sky high peaks with mist adding a slightly mystical dimension. It's warmed up a bit too and a nice escape from the mayhem far below. Hawks circling above on thermals before swooping to pick at the garbage below.

Time for a cup of tea before heading back. After satisfying myself I was at minimal risk of getting poisoned I took the plunge and placed the order. So, for 10 rupees I got hot tea with cinnamon, cardamon, bay leaf and  cow milk! Actually it's not bad - tea the Nepali way, and among well behaved monkeys.

Getting back should be easy enough, just across that bridge, along those lanes and follow the mayhem back to Thamel and a good, freshly made local curry.

Friday, 10 January 2014

Mayhem in Kathmandu, Nepal, 9th January, 2014

Madness and Mayhem in  Kathmandu...

Breakfast at Mc Donald, just a few steps from Pilgrims. Tandoori Paratha and Dhal for about £1.50 - bit pricey but too hungry to go stomping around for a better deal! A couple of coffees, a read of the Kathmandu Post and some deliberation over where to start this Kathmandu experience I have read plenty about.

A glance at the free tourist map, collected on leaving the airport, doesn't help a great deal since the roads around here don't have names, well it's not obvious to the new tourist if they have! So, based on trial and error, and a degree of internal direction finding lets go and  head towards the North.

Must be at the main road bordering Thamel according to the map anyway. First landmark of note is this fruit and vegetable shop right on the corner of this busy junction - colourful enough to spot again. A few minutes here watching the mayhem as a relentless stream of traffic mixes with and even more relentless flow of people! A few near misses already, buses full to overflowing negotiating people and bikes! Left look more interesting and seems to lead towards the hills, possibly a view of the mountains too.

A glint catches my attention. High up on a hill in the far distance is what looks like a temple - white dome with a golden spire, heading for that seems a good idea right now. To say the place is dusty is somewhat an understatement - dust mixed with fumes makes hiking along this road a bit unpleasant, and given that people and traffic share the same space I'd say getting hit is quite likely!

Thursday, 9 January 2014

Its Winter in Kathmandu, Nepal, 2014

Cold in Kathmandu...

Pilgrims Guest House is where I've ended up. It's situated on the edge of Thamel, a district of downtown Kathmandu which is also considered the tourist district. Plenty of lodgings, souvenir shops, travel and tour agencies but just not that many tourists. What tourists there are comprise mainly Japanese and Chinese nationals with a splattering of Westerners. It's Winter here and a pretty cold one too, although find a sun trap and it's warm enough to undo the coat.  Plenty of thick blankets are supplied thankfully although no heating - well, for a 10$ room can't have everything. It's not a bad room actually, quite pleasant if a little frayed around the edges. The free Wifi is a nice bonus although slow until about 10pm when usage by others drops a bit.

Well, I'm given the hard sell about trips and tours whilst sipping Nepalese sweet tea. Plenty of expensive options from 10 day treks to camping in the national park and all that good stuff, however I have something completey different in-mind in a few days time!

Ok, better find an ATM and pay off my Nepalese debts, namely the 4$ taxi ride. Bit of a hike into Central Thamel but after 1 ATM fail, success at the second go - just got to remember where it is!

A clean cafe here just a few doors down from the guest house. It's called Mc Donald and seems pretty busy with mostly Japanese. So, the first meal consists of dhal fry curry, plain rice and coffee - £1.66 and I couldn't finish it! Not bad for a tourist place and yes that meal was delicious! Time to wrap around those blankets and get some well deserved sleep.


Album - landing in Kathmandu, Nepal, 2014

Passing mountain villages and hilltop communities as the plane makes a final approach into Kathmandu











Album - Leaving Istanbul for Kathmandu, Nepal 2014

On the way to Kathmandu and a first glimpse of the Himalayas...