India Gate and the Taj Mumbai June 17th 2012

Gate of India and the Taj..

As ever in these situations over the last 5 1/2 months in South East Asia a man pops up from seemingly nowhere with plenty of advise on where to stay - where a weary traveller lugging a backpack can say for a few dollars. A trek down this road, turning right, then left and along here, heading towards an 800 rupee room and if I don't like it we can try a 400 rupee room - sounds like a reasonable plan! This is definitely the better part of town, still with pockets of dilapidation and deprivation though.

As the man hovers outside, I'll see what 800 rupees gets in downtown Mumbai. well, not very much is the answer to that. A small room, a hard bed and a fan. Not the best, but not the worst on this trip, and not worth 800 I point out, picking up my bags and making for the exit - we end up at 700, about £8.50 which is probably the best anyone is going to get for a downtown location. Security actually is quite good with a robust padlock for the room door, but only after making a fuss and not paying anything until I had the key in my hand. The little man hovering outside wanted something for his trouble as I made my down to agree level. Still no small change, but he's happy with some Thai Baht I have surplus to requirements.

A few hours of exploration before darkness descends. A steady drizzle, looks like its set for the rest of the afternoon, but I guess that's a blessing in disguise masking what otherwise might have been an oppressively hot day. So, here I am in Colaba and wondering why folks stop off in Mumbai. A few yards from the guest house is the sea wall with hundreds of locals lined along its entire length looking out to sea. It's quite deep water here with waves crashing and splashing  over. Ok, it seems to be a game of avoid getting wet, a bit pointless as this drizzle seems to be getting a little heavier. But actually, looking a little further out to sea, a shadow in the gloom appears. It's an aircraft carrier with helicopters hovering around it. So, the Navy is in town, collecting supplies from the Juhu base I would think. Looking along the sea wall, another shadow in the mist - a tall, arched structure and just to the left of that, a rather palatial looking hotel. So, this is the Gate of India and the famous Taj hotel. Quite clearly going to cost more than a few dollars to stay here, 200$ minimum actually according to folks on Internet forums. It's the lap of luxury for visitors with money to burn. An awesome building towering high with intriguing architecture. Never far away though are folk lining the pavements dressed in rags. Children begging, taxi drivers food hawkers doing their utmost to attract custom. This is the place to hold on to those loose items, secure pockets and then enjoy the atmosphere, for this is why people stop off in Mumbai. It's noisy, it's grubby but it's colourful, vibrant and so different in culture - it's India!

Thousands of people are milling around the gate, queueing for boat rides and generally enjoying their Sunday afternoon leisure. Very few Western tourists though, buts it is out of season so not surprising. The rain sets in, the wind blows - uh oh, monsoon. Holed up, crammed in, sheltering under the eves of a public loo - It's the only place to escape the relentless, heavy rain for the foreseeable future! Finally, the rain stops as the last remnants of daylight slip away. Still just enough light for a souvenir photo of the Taj Hotel standing with prominence in all its majesty.