Friday 3 May 2013

Bako National Park, Borneo, April 28th 2013

Bako National Park, The Beach Hike

Two species  of monkey, a few wild boars and with a little luck Hornbills can be seen within the forest park at Bako, 40 minutes north by local bus, all according to the tourist blurb.  £4 to enter the park, which is only accessible by boat,  an extra £20, less if 5 can share the ride.

Another early start eager to catch the 7am bus to Bako, which leaves not from the bus station, but a street outside the Electra house and market area. Breakfast from the market, a Chinese stall has a selection of pastries and cakes, pick and mix 6 for 2 Ringitt, about 50p. Might be a good idea to grab the same again for lunch since I don't know what ther'ed be to eat around  park area.

65p for the 45 minute ride to Bako on this warm but misty Sunday April morning. The northern suburbs, predominantly light industry and housing blocks although occasionally the traditional Malay house-on-stilts pops up in the midst of a modern suburban landscape. Then, rich, lush green vegetation on an area of wetlands indicating that maybe Bako isn't far away.

A smallish village situated both sides of the Sarawak river with plenty of folk milling around. Quite a lively atmosphere actually as tourists roll up in cars, taxis and mini buses - good, plenty to share what might have been an expensive boat ride.  Not for the first time in Malaysia, discrimination as whites have to pay double price and it's is indeed £4 for the park entry. Not long before a group of 5 is formed from the melee of Western and Chinese tourists - actually I would say 70% Chinese dominating the proceedings, calling the shots as Westerners just tag along, some reeling from the discrimination, particularly a family of Russians.

20 minutes to the park HQ on a moderately fast small boat, no life jackets offered, crocs in the water apparently as we pass close to the parks mangroves. Oh, and the boat ride is another £4 return trip or single trip if it sinks! A 10 minute hike from the jetty to park HQ, registration and tea as I digest a map of the various treks available. Anything from a gentle 30 minute loop in the forest to a seven hour hike to the mountain top through some pretty thick jungle, only for the adventurous and those staying overnight. The boat back leaves at 3pm, 10 am now and it's pretty hot, so I think an undemanding hike to the cliff edge then down to the beach, just follow the yellow trail, according to the map should take 1 1/2 hours.

A strenuous 20 minutes hike upwards through thick jungle, over tree roots and round a few boulders before its gets easier once on the plateau. Board walk, although a little precarious in places ease ones passage over boggy areas although there is occasionally mud to tramp through. It's quite a relief to reach the cliff edge as the full effect of a sea breeze can be used for a cooling down and regeneration of energy for the last 10 minutes of hiking down to the beach and lunch time. 3 curry pasties and 3 cakes from the Chinese pick and mix in Kuching earlier, a welcome energy boost.

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