Saturday, 2 March 2013

An Abortion in Melaka, March 2nd 2013

Mission Aborted but not Mission Impossible.

Today's mission is navigate the local bus network and end up at the Butterfly and Reptilian Centre, several kilometres out of town according to the tourist leaflet.They claim 30 species of Butterflies and the best in reptiles Malaysia has to offer, ok let's check it out. According to blogs on the internet, if the bus is missed, it's around 90 minutes for the next one, if at all. Waiting patiently then, just set back from the bus stand under the shade of a tree. There it is, I grab the bag and run waving at the driver, but to no avail. Bus number 17 sails past, half empty. Since I've already waited 30 minutes, I'm not really in the mood now to Wait for the next one, it won't be around again for another hour according to a local. Mission aborted but not mission impossible, not yet anyway, tomorrow then.

A tour of the town then, well the heritage part anyway. A town of two halves separated by the river - Chinese one side, everyone else the other. Melaka is a UNESCO heritage town and as such the residents are forced to keep it nice and clean, for the hoards of tourists making the journey here, almost like a pilgrimage - mainly from the China-Japan region, with a handful of westerners. This side of the river and it's museums, historic churches and remnants of what once was the town wall and quite well fortified with evidence of a cannon placement - i'm sure it's all original, looks authentic anyway.

Across the river, it's all Chinese, with their shop houses on Jonker Street, with quaint streets leading off - well, they would be quaint if it wasn't for the relentless traffic through the area. It's impossible to capture the old world quaintness without a car in the photograph, even worse a line of traffic, seems a permanent hazard around here if the enthusiastic tourist isn't careful about where they step.

So, the scene is one of traffic choked little streets, with the occasional quiet, and yes, quaint street, just about room for 2 cars to pass. I suspect rat running is a common practise around here! An art gallery, next door is an antique shop, then it's another 2 art and antiques business followed by an art cafe, and so it carries on like this for the most part of this heritage area. The usual tourist tack is available in all shapes and sizes - I suppose someone must be buying this stuff. surprisingly, most of these cafes are closed, opening just at weekends or later in the afternoon according to what's posted on the door anyway. If it wasn't for the traffic then this would be quite a place, something worth shouting about anyway, but still, an interesting hour or two taking in how clean and tidy the place is, and how those antiques will just have to wait until another time.

Back across the river, time to duck out of the heat and duck into some aircon. That's easily achieved, just locate the giant McDonald's sign and there is the entrance to a giant shopping mall, and Starbucks. Starbucks because there's always Wifi free with any coffee, a good place to chill out, absorb the Chinese vibe and wonder how these Chinese school kids can afford such luxury.

It's a town all things to all people, that's how I shall describe it. A cosmopolitan front with the old world charm waiting to be explored. Perhaps that's why Melaka works so well, judging by the hoards of tourists here. Tour groups by the hundreds, mostly Japanese, Koreans and of course Chinese I would guess is the makeup of this vibrant Melee of folk excited to be in Melaka, Malaysia.

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