Just 7 Hours to Kandy
A number of options for moving on with most tourists heading south towards the beaches and a $100 jeep safari of the local National Park at Yala. Quite a lot of money to see a herd of elephants and a slim chance meeting with a leopard, so I'm opting to stay in the hill country, where I'm already experiencing the glories of Sri Lankan nature. In general, excursions are way overpriced in this country, and some operators have less than impressive records offering poor value for money, according to others who have written about their experiences on various blog sites.
The railway station is just a short walk from the village, about 10 minutes so, just time to go into the only bank and swap some large notes for smaller ones so that i can buy a few flat bread snacks. Queuing to get the ticket amidst plenty of white tourists, mostly those coming from southern resorts to spend further time in the hills, a few others heading to Colombo and their overnight flights home. Ticket from Ella to Kandy is £1.30 second class and the journey time - well, around six hours estimated, it all depends on....things running smoothly!
Rumbling over iron bridges, rolling through tea fields with bushes right up to the track sides and of course stunning scenery as those passengers with a window seat have the opportunity to hang out, and those that don't just hang out of the doorways instead.
6 1/2 hours as the train grinds to a halt at Peridanyia junction. Curiously, men are offering tuk tuk rides to Kandy, 500 rupees seems to be the average price. Transpires that this train is bound for Colombo and Kandy passengers have to get off. A mellay of confused tourists, caught unaware of this and are picked off one by one by the tuk tuk mafia as it emerges another Kandy bound train arrives in 20 minutes. Back in Kandy some 7 hours from setting off this morning - it's hard work sitting for 7 hours watching great scenery. I suppose this journey must rank among the best for scenic trips by rail.
Just a few steps from leaving the cafe and I'm plucked off the street by a wiry old timer who insists that he knows a good place where I can stay! Warning signs, mental check list: firstly, how much is the room and what's the tax? This question arises since a tout who thinks they have picked on a naive traveler can skim a few extra bucks with a false tax claim. "1500 rupees and no tax", insists the man, handing me a business card. Next question leads to the almost inevitable tuk tuk ride at inflated cost, again with added tax. "No tuk tuk, only 5 minutes this way"' says the man who by now sounds quite exasperated with the fact he's picked on an experienced backpacker this time! So, with this property in the general direction of all the other guesthouses I don't have anything to loose, everything to gain. And the man, well, I'm sure he'll get some commission from the Madame of the house.
A number of options for moving on with most tourists heading south towards the beaches and a $100 jeep safari of the local National Park at Yala. Quite a lot of money to see a herd of elephants and a slim chance meeting with a leopard, so I'm opting to stay in the hill country, where I'm already experiencing the glories of Sri Lankan nature. In general, excursions are way overpriced in this country, and some operators have less than impressive records offering poor value for money, according to others who have written about their experiences on various blog sites.
The railway station is just a short walk from the village, about 10 minutes so, just time to go into the only bank and swap some large notes for smaller ones so that i can buy a few flat bread snacks. Queuing to get the ticket amidst plenty of white tourists, mostly those coming from southern resorts to spend further time in the hills, a few others heading to Colombo and their overnight flights home. Ticket from Ella to Kandy is £1.30 second class and the journey time - well, around six hours estimated, it all depends on....things running smoothly!
Rumbling over iron bridges, rolling through tea fields with bushes right up to the track sides and of course stunning scenery as those passengers with a window seat have the opportunity to hang out, and those that don't just hang out of the doorways instead.
6 1/2 hours as the train grinds to a halt at Peridanyia junction. Curiously, men are offering tuk tuk rides to Kandy, 500 rupees seems to be the average price. Transpires that this train is bound for Colombo and Kandy passengers have to get off. A mellay of confused tourists, caught unaware of this and are picked off one by one by the tuk tuk mafia as it emerges another Kandy bound train arrives in 20 minutes. Back in Kandy some 7 hours from setting off this morning - it's hard work sitting for 7 hours watching great scenery. I suppose this journey must rank among the best for scenic trips by rail.
Just a few steps from leaving the cafe and I'm plucked off the street by a wiry old timer who insists that he knows a good place where I can stay! Warning signs, mental check list: firstly, how much is the room and what's the tax? This question arises since a tout who thinks they have picked on a naive traveler can skim a few extra bucks with a false tax claim. "1500 rupees and no tax", insists the man, handing me a business card. Next question leads to the almost inevitable tuk tuk ride at inflated cost, again with added tax. "No tuk tuk, only 5 minutes this way"' says the man who by now sounds quite exasperated with the fact he's picked on an experienced backpacker this time! So, with this property in the general direction of all the other guesthouses I don't have anything to loose, everything to gain. And the man, well, I'm sure he'll get some commission from the Madame of the house.
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