Dambetenne Estate
A collection of ramshackle and dilapidated structures probably best describes the place immediately around the factory, with the whole lot being situated on a plateau - a long way down and a long way up as the clouds part briefly once again. At least the roads on the estate are in good order so I'm unlikely to trip and break any bones. Dambetenne, Its the first real close up view visitors get of a tea community their way of life. Looking around and evidence that these people on the lower part of the estate are pretty poor - only one descriptive to use here, squalor. Open drains and the odd whiff of poop amongst the makeshift structures of corrugated iron and, well just about any material these folk can make use of, it's dusty and dirty. Further up, edging ever closer to Liptons Seat and the community begins spreading out. Bungalows and the odd villa dotted in the hills. Looks like they get a garden too, must be the lucky ones. Vegetable patches, plots even small fields giving the casual visitor that there is a sense of self-sufficiency. A community that at least has the means to provide some food for its inhabitants, and coupled with the supply of free mountain water so expertly harnessed, then life probably isn't as desperate as first appears.
Carrying on then, up towards those clouds, or is it the clouds getting lower again! A rather austere looking building comes into view, reminds me slightly of the Toul Sleng School in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, turned into a tourture centre during the tyrannous rule of the Khmer Rouge. It is a school, presumably for the estate workers children. I tentivly wander in expecting to be given marching orders. Well, so far they seem quite amused to see a visitor, let alone a Western one. The desks are old, the buildings are shabby and very basic, but functional as I can see classes in session. I'm allowed a few snaps here in what seems to be the main building constructed on 2 levels. Outside again and it's raining steadily. "can I shelter here", I ask a teacher. A curious sideways nod, might be yes, might be no. Well, on the assumption that they won't kick me out into the rain I'll stay put until it eases again, much to the amusement of the kids on their lunch break. Some of them are shy, others will say hello, ascertain my country of origin then ask for something. Top of the list; a school pen, then a school book and lastly, when none of those items are forthcoming - money.
further on, a hospital unit sits prominently on the roadside. A quick look here reveals another rather austere looking setup, something resembling a Victorian institution but with the type of equipment I remember seeing about 30 years ago. A service provided by the estate presumably to deal with snake bites. Nobody around, it's eerily quiet. No doctors, no nurses, no patients.
Kids are leaving school, yes it's 2pm and home time as they make an orderly exit - uphill and downhill. Again I'm asked for things I haven't got and pulling out my wallet right now will just open the flood gates to a torrent of expectations I won't be able to fulfil. Walking away smiling, they seem to accept the situation graciously, pride intact on both sides. The rain starts again, time to abort and head back I think, with enough time to look around Bandarawela, that town just a few kilometres from Ella.
Bumping along to Haputale, pausing there for 10 minutes then onto Bandarawela. Again it's 45 rupees, about 23p for the 40 minute experience of a white knuckle ride on these narrow, bumpy winding roads at some considerable altitude.
A collection of ramshackle and dilapidated structures probably best describes the place immediately around the factory, with the whole lot being situated on a plateau - a long way down and a long way up as the clouds part briefly once again. At least the roads on the estate are in good order so I'm unlikely to trip and break any bones. Dambetenne, Its the first real close up view visitors get of a tea community their way of life. Looking around and evidence that these people on the lower part of the estate are pretty poor - only one descriptive to use here, squalor. Open drains and the odd whiff of poop amongst the makeshift structures of corrugated iron and, well just about any material these folk can make use of, it's dusty and dirty. Further up, edging ever closer to Liptons Seat and the community begins spreading out. Bungalows and the odd villa dotted in the hills. Looks like they get a garden too, must be the lucky ones. Vegetable patches, plots even small fields giving the casual visitor that there is a sense of self-sufficiency. A community that at least has the means to provide some food for its inhabitants, and coupled with the supply of free mountain water so expertly harnessed, then life probably isn't as desperate as first appears.
Carrying on then, up towards those clouds, or is it the clouds getting lower again! A rather austere looking building comes into view, reminds me slightly of the Toul Sleng School in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, turned into a tourture centre during the tyrannous rule of the Khmer Rouge. It is a school, presumably for the estate workers children. I tentivly wander in expecting to be given marching orders. Well, so far they seem quite amused to see a visitor, let alone a Western one. The desks are old, the buildings are shabby and very basic, but functional as I can see classes in session. I'm allowed a few snaps here in what seems to be the main building constructed on 2 levels. Outside again and it's raining steadily. "can I shelter here", I ask a teacher. A curious sideways nod, might be yes, might be no. Well, on the assumption that they won't kick me out into the rain I'll stay put until it eases again, much to the amusement of the kids on their lunch break. Some of them are shy, others will say hello, ascertain my country of origin then ask for something. Top of the list; a school pen, then a school book and lastly, when none of those items are forthcoming - money.
further on, a hospital unit sits prominently on the roadside. A quick look here reveals another rather austere looking setup, something resembling a Victorian institution but with the type of equipment I remember seeing about 30 years ago. A service provided by the estate presumably to deal with snake bites. Nobody around, it's eerily quiet. No doctors, no nurses, no patients.
Kids are leaving school, yes it's 2pm and home time as they make an orderly exit - uphill and downhill. Again I'm asked for things I haven't got and pulling out my wallet right now will just open the flood gates to a torrent of expectations I won't be able to fulfil. Walking away smiling, they seem to accept the situation graciously, pride intact on both sides. The rain starts again, time to abort and head back I think, with enough time to look around Bandarawela, that town just a few kilometres from Ella.
Bumping along to Haputale, pausing there for 10 minutes then onto Bandarawela. Again it's 45 rupees, about 23p for the 40 minute experience of a white knuckle ride on these narrow, bumpy winding roads at some considerable altitude.
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